JOURNAL 



OF A- 




TRIP TO LONDON, PARIS 



AND THE 



GREAT EXHIBITION, 



IN 



1851 






BY ZADOCK THOMPSON 




BURLINGTON : 
PUBLISHED BY NICHOLS & WARREN. 

GEO. J- STACY, PRINTKfi. 
1852. 



EfiTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN TUB TEAR 1851 , 

By ZADOCK THOMPSON, 
I» the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Vermont. 




\0 



PREFATORY REMARK* 



Gratitude is, in itself, a most delightful emotion ; but it is possi- 
ble for the warmest gratitude to be so associated and mingled with 
a sense of unrequited favors, as to leave the balance doubtful, be- 
tween the pleasure of the one and the pain of the other. I speak 
from experience ; for while the good opinion, and the kindness of 
my many friends in Burlington, have been to me a source of the 
deepest pleasure, I have been, at the same time, deeply pained to 
think how little I have done to merit their favors, and how bttle 1 
can do to repav them. Although, from my own experience, I can 
hardly speak otherwise than as a recipient, yet I can well conceive 
circumstances in which it may be more blessed to give than to receive. 
Such would be the case, when the giver, with proper motives, gives 
for a worthy object, and when the receiver receives, conscious that 
he is totally unworthy of the favor bestowed. 

During my recent trip to Paris and London, I took, for my own 

convenience, short notes of my progress, and of occurrences, from 

day to day. Since my return, some of my friends have expressed 

a wish that I would allow my Journal, containing these notes, to 

be published. Gratitude to them forbids my refusal : but I consent 

to its publication, not that I am ambitious to produce a book of 

travels nor that I expect the public to derive much mformation or 

amusement from its perusal, but simply to place in the hands of my 

most kind friends, a trifling memorial of my gratitude to them for 

the means, voluntarily furnished, without which I could never have 

experienced the pleasure, or have written a Journal of a personal 

trip to the Old World-^without which I could never have had the 

opportunity I have enjoyed, of beholding the wonders of the great 

deep, and of seeing and admiring the wonderful things of nature 

and art which lie beyond it , 



V1 - PREFATORY REMARKS. 



The World's Fair, having been rather the occasion, than the ob- 
ject, of my visit to Europe, may not fill so large a space in my 
Journal as some may expect. I spent several days at the Crystal 
Palace, admiring that marvellous building and its wonderful con- 
tents, and have recorded a few general observations respecting them ; 
but years would be required to examine them all, and volumes to 
describe them. 

Much has been said respecting the meagreness of the American 
department of the Exhibition, and, verily, I think myself it was 
meagre, compared with what it might have been. But it well rep- 
resented our country, being a large space only partly filled. Our 
articles were plain and substantial, but not showy. Hence, it pre- 
sented little attraction to the superficial observer, and was some- 
times passed with a sneer, by the admirers of the gewgaws and 
tinsel of other departments. A little careful observation, however, 
was all that was needful to learn the fact, that real merit might lie 
concealed under an unpromising exterior— that the American arti- 
cles would compare, favorably, with those of the same kind from 
any other country. 

Two circumstances operated much to our disadvantage, especially 
in the view of superficial observers. In the first place, we attempt- 
ed to occupy about three times as much space as we sent over ma- 
terials to fill. In the second place, the accommodations and fixtures 
were not such as to exhibit our articles to the best advantage ; nor 
was there sufficient care bestowed in giving them a neat and orderly 
arrangement, and in keeping them clean and in their places after- 
wards. When entering the American department, the first gen- 
eral impression seemed to be, that of entering a division of the 
building from which the choice articles had been mostly removed, 
leaving little more than the rough fixtures and remnants of goods 
scattered around in disorder and covered with dust. This, I say, 
seemed to be the first general impression. But this impression was 
soon removed from the minds of those, who had the patience to ex- 
amine into the intrinsic merits of our articles ; and such left our 
department with no disposition to sneer at the ingenuity and skill 
of the Americans. And, had we occupied, in the Crystal Talace, 
no more space than the proper disposition of our articles required, 
and had our General Government provided, as it appears to me 



I'ltfifAfOKY It£MAnK8. Vn. 



it should have done, fur the suitable exposition and care of them, 
the American department, with only the materials we had there, 
might have appeared creditable, at the first view of the hundreds of 
thousands, as it was fully acknowledged to be, by the hundreds 
who had the patience to examine it. 

But notwithstanding the sneers of foreigners and the professed 
shame of some of our own countrymen, on account of the meagre* 
Hess of the American contributions to the Exhibition, in its earlier 
stages, the state of things was materially changed before its close. 
Foreigners were at length compelled, (reluctantly, indeed,) to ac- 
knowledge our superiority in some things; and the desponding 
Americans were, consequently, again enabled to hold up their heads. 
As Brother Jonathan made Ins debut in the Crystal Palace in his 
back-woods dress, the refined and burnished specimens of humanity 
of the old world, looked upon him at first as demi-savage — half In* 
dian — little advanced in the arts beyond the fabrication of stone 
hatchets and arrow-heads and bone-knives ; but long before the 
close of the Exhibition, his despised ploughs were able to open a 
furrow in the turf which covered their eyes, his reaping machines 
mowed a swarth through their prejudices, and his keys unlocked 
their sentiments of respect and confidence — yea, and his yachts 
were wafted gracefully by the breath of popular applause. 

The following Journal contains brief notes for each day, from the 
time of my departure from Burlington, till I again reached my 
home. They were, for the most part, written at the close of the 
day, just before retiring to rest, often under great inconveniences, 
and with no expectation that they would ever be published in their 
present form. I wrote them for myself and family, and I permit 
them to be published in their original form, with very few changes, 
either of abatement or addition, as a token of gratitude to my per- 
gonal friends, knowing that they will be indulgent to their imper- 
fections, both in matter and manner. Others may think that I 
have recorded too much of every day occurrences—that I have re- 
peated, too often, my hour of retiring at night and of rising in the 
morning. To such, I would merely express the wish, that the reit- 
erated exhibition of a good example of early rising, may induce 
others to copy it. And to any who may think that I have said too* 
much respecting myself , my health, &c, I would reply, that these 



fREFAfORY REMARKS, 



were matters in which I felt a deep personal interest, and " out of 
the abundance of the heart the mouth epeaketh." But I am happy 
now, in being able to state that, notwithstanding my indisposition 
while abroad, I find that, on the whole, my health is decidedly im* 
proved by my excursion ; and I desire that theoe pages may go forth 
as a thank-offering to my friends, accompanied by my earnest prayer 
that the Lord will reward them abundantly for their kindnesses. 

Z, THOMPSON, 
Bieuxgtox, Dec. 1, 1851. 



III11I1 



Having completed arrangements for that purpose, I 
left Burlington in the Steamer, Whitehall, Capt. La- 
tr op, in the evening o( the 27th of May, 1851, and, at 
half past six o'clock the next morning, took the cars at 
Whitehall for Troy, where I arrived about 10 o'clock. 
At Troy I was detained till evening, when I went on 
board the Steamer, Empire, for New York, where I 
met several friends from Burlington, who had left that 
place in the morning and had come down irom. White- 
hall in the afternoon train. It was daylight in the 
morning of the 29th before we had passed the High- 
Lands, and the beautiful scenery thence to New York 
was exhibited to fine advantage in the clearness and se- 
renity of the morning. The view of the Palisades, il- 
luminated by the rising sun, was strikingly beautiful 
and grand ; and, together with the line of the Croton 
aqueduct and the Hudson river rail road seen on the 
east side of the river, and the ninny charming towns 
and villages and country seats, which adorn its banks, 
rendered our approach to the city of Sew York exceed- 
ingly interesting and delightful. 

We reached the city a little after 7 o'clock in the 
morning, and I proceeded immediately to the Irving 
House, where I was cordially received by my friend, 



10 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

D. D. Howard, Esq., one of the enterprising and well 
known proprietors of that popular establishment. On 
Thursday and Friday I called upon several friends in 
New York, and made the necessary arrangements for 
my departure. On Saturday, at 11 o'clock in the morn- 
ing, I went on board the Franklin with my baggage, 
and had the pleasure of meeting there some of my Bur- 
lington friends, who came on board to witness my de- 
parture. On leaving the Irving House, Mr. H. with 
his accustomed generosity, refused to receive any pay 
for the elegant and profuse hospitalities of his House, 
which I had enjoyed for three days, and, moreover, be- 
sides furnishing me, gratuitously, w^hile there, with a 
ticket to one of Jenny Lind's concerts, he kindly invit- 
ed me to be his guest on my return. 

At 12 o'clock, on the 31st of May, the noble Steam- 
Ship, Franklin, was released from her moorings at Pier, 
No. 4, North River, and moved out into the stream, and, 
at 2 P. M., the discharge of her guns announced that 
she was headed round towards the sea and was taking 
her departure. The weather was fine, with a light 
northerly wind, and I was fully occupied in admiring 
and enjoying the charming prospects and the beautiful 
stenery, successively brought into view, as we glided 
rapidly downward by Castle Garden, and the several 
forts and islands, until we had gotten outside of Sandy 
Hook. The river and bay were well besprinkled with 
vessels moving in various directions, and all around 
was life and activity. Just outside of the Hook, we 
met a large emigrant ship, the deck of which was liter- 
ally crammed with miserable and squalid beings from 
the old world, and at 6 P. M., we had lost sight of land 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 11 



and found our horizon, all around us, terminating in the 
ocean. At about 20 minutes past seven, I saw the sun 
set, for the first time, beneath the dark waters in the 
west. Retired to my berth between 9 and 10 in the 
evening, and slept tolerable well till morning. 

My chum I find to be a fine old French gentleman 
from New Orleans, by the name of Blanchard. He is 
able to converse some in English, but not very fluently. 
Our state room is in the forward part of the ship and is 
quite too small for convenience, especially as we have 
each of us a very large trunk. Every state room and 
berth in the ship appear to be occupied, and 1 under- 
stand the number of passengers on board to be about 14.0. 
The officers, crew, cooks, waiters, &c, must be about 100, 
making the whole number of souls on board, near 250. 
June 1, Sunday.— Rose quite early, found the weath- 
er fair, the wind light and the sea but little agita- 
ted By the sun's altitude at noon our latitude was 
found to be 40 Q 33', our longitude, 69° 10', and our 
distance from New York, 227 miles, making the 
mean rate of our progress about 11 miles per hour.-- 
During Sunday we passed seven sailing vessels and 
one large steamer. The latter was at a great distance 
from us, and was supposed to be the Washington from 
Bremen. During the day we had alight wind from a 
point a little east of north, and the atmosphere was 
hazy but in the evening the wind increased, and, be- 
fore morning, blew quite a gale, rendering the sea 
rough, and causing the ship to pitch and roll very con- 
siderably. . A 
June 2. Monday.— Morning dark and cloudy, wind 
strong from a point a little east of north, sea very rough, 



12 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

white caps abundant, and our ship pitching and rolling 
very badly. A dismal scene below. Sea sickness be- 
gan to make an unequivocal manifestation of itself last 
evening, and before morning, full two thirds of the pas- 
sengers had received an experimental assurance of the 
fact. Yery few have made their appearance in the din- 
ing saloon to day. Since half past ten this morning, 
the weather has been foggy, with the sea running high 
and dashing its spray over the upper deck, in such a 
manner that the wo-begone passengers could not remain 
there, and they have, consequently, teen, most of the 
day, in their berths Although I have experienced 
very little of the suffering, which Mr. Grcely represents 
himself to have endured, I have witnessed quite enough, 
during the last twenty four hours, to enable me to un- 
derstand very well the scenes he so feelingly described 
in the Tribune, in his account of his first voyage across 
the Atlantic. But while old Neptune's demands for 
tribute were very generally imperative and irresistible, 
he showed himself very indulgent to me, exacting only 
a slight nausea and loss of appetite, but not sufficient to 
prevent my regular appearance in the dinning saloon 
at the hour of meals. I retired to my berth somewhat 
earlier than usual, and, notwithstanding the rolling and 
tumbling of the ship, slept very well till morning. 

June 3. Tuesday — Rose about sunrise, found the sea 
less agitated than it was last evening, — wind fresh from 
south-southeast. At 7 A. M. the wind had gone fully 
round into the south. The ship's course, by the com- 
pass, since we left Sandy-Hook, has been directly east, 
but, on account of the magnetic variation, the true 
course has been very considerably to the northward of 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 13 

east. Our latitude, to day at noon, was 41° 40', longi- 
tude 5S a 21', and distance run since the preceeding 
noon, 230 miles. At 5 P. M. we passed a school of 
what the sailors called, Ship- Jacks. They were skip- 
ping and playing along the surface of the water, and 
appeared to be about a foot and a half long and very 
thick and clumped. About sunset we had a smart 
shower, with several claps of thunder. They were not 
attended with that rumbling reverberation, which is ob- 
served on land, but were sudden and short, like reports 
of a cannon. The shower came from the southwest. 

French is, I think, the native language of more than 
one half of the passengers onboard, and numbers of 
them can speak no other. Very many of them are from 
New Orleans and the West Indies, and several of them 
are Jews. Many of the passengers continue to suffer 
from sea-sickness, but a majority, I think, haveappear- 
ed in the dining saloon to day, at the principal meals. 
June 4. Wednesday. The ship has rolled badly during 
the night, on account of a change in the direction of the 
wind last evening. I arose a little after midnight and 
spent some time on deck, observing the phosphorescence 
of the waves, as they broke around the ship. I had ob- 
served the light, from the water flashing into the win- 
dows of my state room, before I left my berth. Stars 
were visible at the time, but the sky was partially ob- 
scured by clouds. I retired again to my berth about 
one o'clock and slept till five, when I arose, and found 
the sky completely overcast, the wind north and the 
thermometer, in the air, at 52°. The forenoon, howev- 
er, proved to be fair, with a light wind, but there was a 
long heavv swell of the sea. giving a disagreeable mo- 
2* 



14 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

lion to the ship, and a very considerable number are 
still suffering from sea-sickness. Have not suffered at 
all myself, excepting as mentioned on Monday. 

At noon to day, we were in latitude 43 G 31', in 
ongitude 52° 53', and had advanced since the previous 
noon, 265 miles. We are said to be now upon the 
Grand Bank of Newfoundland — the great Fishing-Bank 
of the world, and about 1000 miles from New York, or 
about one third, the distance across the Atlantic. We 
have passed several sail to day, bound westward, one 
of which was ascertained to be the London packet, ^lar- 
garet Evans, which was advertised to leave Portsmouth 
on the 16th of May. About three and half P. M. wc 
passed the wreck of a schooner, consisting of little more 
than the keel and ribs, from which the planks were 
nearly all stripped. 

Experienced mariners usually tell when they are up- 
on soundings by the color of the water, it being darker 
and having little of that beautiful light greenish-blue 
tint, so observable in the waves of the deep sea. Since 
we came upon the Grand Bank, the color of the water 
has resembled, very closely, that of the deeper parts of 
our fresh water lakes. 

The sunset, to night, was the most interesting I ever 
witnessed, not only on account of the varied and beau- 
tiful colors, which lit up the western sky, but, more 
particularly, on account of the wonderful effect of at- 
mospheric refraction. Burlington is celebrated for its 
beautiful sunsets, and can boast of some, which might, 
perhaps, vie, in splendor and loveliness with the one 
just mentioned, but never before did 1 witness such a 
distortion of the sun's image by refraction. Close down 




LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 15 

to the horizon the refraction was such as to convert the 
sun's disc very nearly into the form of a vertical sec- 
tion of an old fashioned loaf of bread. But as this 
comparison may be as indefinite with regard to form, 
as was that of the witness' piece of 
chalk, with regard to size. I introduce 
the accompanying figure to explain 
my meaning : The flattening of the 
disc was such, that the vertical diam- 
eter did not much exceed two thirds of 
the horizontal diameter, but the flattening was princi- 
pally upon the under side; and, indeed, it was there, so 
great, just before the disappearance of the sun, that the 
boundary of the disc below differed very little from a 
right line. Between sunset and dark, something, which 
the seamen called a Flying Fish, passed us, fluttering 
along the side of the ship, most of the time out of the 
water, but it was so nearly dark that I had not a dis- 
inct view of it. 

June 5. Thursday. — Awoke this morning about 4 
o'clock, but perceiving it to be very foggy, went to sleep 
again and slept till 5, when I arose and found we were 
in the midst of a field of Icebergs. At the time I came 
upon deck there was one, of considerable size, in plain 
sight at the south east, and only about a mile off; and 
I was told that we had, a short time previous to my 
coming on deck, passed very near several others of 
much larger size. The thermometer in the air stood, 
at the time, at 47°. As we passed along we approached 
somewhat nearer the iceberg above mentioned, and I 
had an opportunity of viewing it indifferent directions. 
U appeared like a rounded mass of nearly snowy white- 



16 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 




ness, exibiting none of the dark crystaline aspect of 
ordinary ice, excepting alon; 
portions of the edges. Its 
form, as seen when directly^! 
to the southward ofus, is exhibited in the accompanying 
diagram, in which the dark shades denote the parts, 
which had the appearance of ice. All the other parts 
resembled snow. I saw no discoloration, which indi- 
cated that it transported either rocks or earth, which 
they are well known frequently to do. The height of 
this iceberg, above the water, was estimated to be about 
50 feet, and its horizontal extent 300 feet; and as this ex- 
tent appeared nearly the same from all the positions 
from which it was seen, the horizontal diameters of the 
mass, at the surface of the sea, must have been nearly 
equal in all directions. To form an idea of the entire 
magnitude of the iceberg, it is necessary to consider that 
only one eighth of the mass of floating ice appears above 
the surface of the water, and therefore the whole mass 
must have been eight times as large as the part seen. 
The western edge of the iceberg appeared to have been 
broken off, presenting a perpendicular face of perhaps 
18 feet in height. About 6 A. M. we passed another 
iceberg, judged to be 5 or 6 miles to the southward of us 
and at 8, three others were in sight some distance to the 
northward. Some of these must have been very much 
larger than the one I have described. The last we saw 
was very large and remote in the north. It exhibited 
two prominences with a valley between them, resem- 
bling two distant mountain summits covered with snow. 
We lost sight of this about 1 P. M. 

About noon we passed a large school of Porpoises, or 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. IT 

I might, perhaps, with equal propriety, say that they 
passed us, for they were moving westward with a speed 
scarcely less than ours eastward. Hovering over them 
and occasionally pitching down among them, were a 
great number of Gulls, and I have observed that wher- 
ever porpoises have shown themselves in numbers, gulls 
have appeared also. Captain Wotton tells me that he 
thinks the porpoises, when sporting and leeping out of 
the water, as we sec them, are pursuing and feeding up- 
on schools of small fishes, and that the gulls are invited 
by the same, and that they pounce upon and seize the 
fishes as they rise to the surface in their endeavors to 
escape the porpoises. Gulls have been quite numerous, 
when there were no porpoises in sight, and I have hard- 
ly been on deck for half an hour in the day time with- 
out seeing more or less of Mother Carey's Chickens a- 
round us* 

At noon to day we were in latitude 45° 26 J , in longi- 
tude 47 a 8' and 1252 miles from New York. We have 
passed, to day, several sail, some of which were bound 
westward, and others apparently engaged in fishing. 
The temperature of the water, passed over during the 
24 hours preceding noon to day, being examined every 
four hours, was found to be 46 c , while that of the at- 
mosphere was 56 c . The weather is cloudy, chilly and 

* Mother Carey's Chickens is a name given to sea-birds resembling 
our Cliff Swallows, but they are somewhat larger and are properly call- 
ed Petrels. The Petrels have been regarded by the ignorant and super- 
stitious as harbingers of storms and shipwrecks, and have, therefore, 
been very unjustly stigmatized by such names as Stormy Petrel, Devil's 
Bird and Mother Carey's Chickens. I noticed two species, which 1 took 
to be the Thalassidruma Wilsonii and T. Leachii. The former was 
jnost common. 



18 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

gloomy, and I am told it is almost always so on the 
Banks: and for a great portion of the year they are cov- 
ered with dense fogs. I have long taken a deep interest 
in Fishes, and yet I can hardly imagine an employment, 
which would be more disagreeable to me than fishing 
on the Grand Bank. I can see no pleasure in the bus- 
iness, except it be that of good bites and u glorious ?iib- 
bles" while the fishermen are all the time exposed to 
chills and fogs and dangerous storms: and yet every 
year hundreds of fishing vessels spend the whole sum- 
mer upon the banks. Wrote a few lines this evening 
to my friend, D. W. C. Clarke, Esq., Editor of the Bur- 
lington Free Press.* 

June 6. Friday. — Rose this morning and went on 
deck about 4 o'clock. — found the weather cloudy with 
a light wind from the east. At a little distance from the 
ship, I observed that the gulls were numerous and ac- 
tive, and, on looking more closely, I perceived the sur- 
face of the ocean to be apparently alive with porpoises, 
leaping and gamboling in the most playful maimer. 
They would frequently leap their entire length out of 
the water, showing the whole animal at the same time. 
A little after 5, I again retired to my berth and slept till 
7, when I arose and found that a smart rain had, in the 
mean time, set in. The rain continued till 11, when the 
wind changed to the west and the rain ceased. At noon 
the clouds were so much broken and dissipated as to en- 
able Captain Wot ton to get a tolerably good observation 
of the sun, for ime and latitude. The latitude was found 
to be 47 Q 57', longitude 41 Q 50', and the distance sailed 
since the preceding noon, 262 miles. The thermometer 

* The letter was published in the Free Press, July 9. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 19 

stood, in the air, at 54 Q , and in the water, at 60°. Dur- 
ing the afternoon the wind continued west, but had in- 
creased before night to quite a gaie, so that the ship toss- 
ed and pitched very badly. I retired at half past 9, but 
slept very little. About midnight I arose and spent 
some time on deck. I found the sky mostly clear, and, 
although the wind had somewhat abated, the sea was 
rougher than it had been at any time since we left New 
York. 

June 7. Saturday.—Rose just as the sun was emerg- 
ing from the ocean, but as it was quite hazy in the north- 
east, there was nothing very remarkable in the appear- 
ance. The surface of the ocean was not so much chop- 
ped and broken as it was yesterday, but the sea was 
running in very large, heavy swells, which caused the 
ship to pitch and roll nearly as much as at any time be- 
fore. About 6 A. M. we passed a sail, being the first 
seen since Thursday. It was at some distance to the 
northward of us, and was standing towards the south- 
west. Shortly afterwards I had the satisfaction of see- 
ing, for the first time, a live Whale. It was judged to 
be about two miles off. I saw it spout a dozen times or 
more, and frequently saw parts of its head above the 
water. It belonged to a small species, which the sailors 
call the Finback Whale. It was probably the whale 
called Grampus, {Delphinus grampus.) When it spouted 
the spray appeared to rise 12 or 15 feet. It is said to 
be a very shy whale, and that ships can seldom approach 
near it. About 2 P. M. we passed another sail, 7 
or 8 miles to the northward of us. The sky has been 
overcast with clouds most of the day, with the wind 
nearly ahead and the sea running in long, heavy swells. 



20 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



June 8. Sunday. — Two sail in sight, 6 or 8 miles to 
the southward of us, when I went on deck: morning 
cloudy, the wind still east, and the sea runnir g in con- 
siderable swells. 

When I left New York I was not acquainted with a 
person on board, nor did I know the name of any one 
excepting Captain Wotton; but I have been gradually 
ascertaining their names and forming some acquain- 
tances. Among these is a Mr. Hodgson, from Savannah, 
Georgia, with his family, consisting of a wife, maiden 
lady and a servant. They informed me that the Rev. 
Willard Preston, who was for a short time, President 
of the University of Vermont, has been their parish min- 
ister, in Savannah, for the last 17 years. There is also 
on board a Rev. Dr. Means, from Georgia. Pie is Pro- 
fessor of Chemistry and Natural History, in a College 
under the patronage of the Methodists. He intends 
travelling through England and Scotland, and on the 
continent for the purpose, principally, of increasing his 
geological information. 

It is now half past ten o'clock in the evening, and day- 
light is still very perceptible. Our latitude is about 51 Q 
our longitude 27 Q , and our distance from New York a 
little over 2100 miles. The sea has become very much 
calmed down since morning. 

June 9. Monday. — Left my berth at half past three 
this morning, and went on deck — cloudy but calm. The 
sun rises here at this season at about 3h. 45m., making 
the days sixteen and a half hours long, and giving a 
strong twilight during most of the short night. Passed 
a brig at half past four, two miles to the southward of us. 
During the forenoon the clouds cleared away and the 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. £1 

weather became fine. Noon observations showed our 
latitude to be 51° 13', longitude 21°27' 3 and distance 
sailed since preceding noon 2S3 miles. 

Made acquaintance to-day with Mr. Putnam, Bc»k 
Publisher, formerly of the firm of Wiley & Putnam, New 
York. He had with him specimens of several new books 
which he was taking out to England. Among these were 
the Proceedings of the American Association for the 
Advancement of Science, at their meeting in New Haven 
in August, 1850, and the recent work of Dr. Hitchcock, 
President of Amherst College, entitled, Geology of Reli- 
gion. The sky became overcast with clouds soon after 
noon, with a gentle breeze from the west, which has 
gradually increased to a strong wind, producing no slight 
commotion in the sea and driving us onward, towards 
the old world, with great rapidity. At 8 o'clock this 
evening, the log indicated an advance of 104 miles since 
noon. 

June 10. Tuesday. — Retired last night at 10, and 
notwithstanding the tossing of the ship, slept very well 
till 3 this morning, when I arose, went on deck, found 
the ship rumsing rapidly before the wind and the weath- 
er fair, but was prevented from seeing the sun rise by a 
haziness in the north-east. At 4 A. T.I. the ship's log 
indicated an advance of 108 miles in the preceding eight 
hours. Passed two sail this morning between 3 and 5 
o'clock. By the sun's altitude at noon, our latitude was 
found to be 50° 19', longitude 13° 55', and the distance 
run since the preceding noon, 300 miles. 

From what is said above, the ship's progress would, 

at first, appear to have been less rapid from 4 A. M. to 

xoon, than it had been, during the sixteen hours previ- 
3 



22 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

ous, but this arises from the mode of reckoning at sea, 
the tims between 4 A. M. and noon, in which 88 of the 
300 miles were ran, being only seven and a half hours. 
The time at sea is noted by a time-piece, which keeps 
mean time, and the hands of which are set every day. at 
n©on, so as to indicate 12 o'clock. If the ship had no 
motion, noon by the sim, each day, would coincide with 
12 o'clock by the time-piece, and it would therefore re- 
quire no alteration. But, if the ship be moving eastward, 
it will be noon by the sun before it is 12 by the time-piece, 
to the amount of 4 minutes for each degree of longitude 
passed over. In going from the United States to Eng- 
land, our steamships pass over, on an average, about 
7a c , equal to thirty minutes in time, each day. Hence 
it is necessary, in order that the time-piece should agree 
with the noon by the sun where the ship is, that it should 
be set forward, each day, about 30 minutes. The reverse 
of this takes place in the return voyage from England to 
the United States. 

The chronometer seems, now, to be very generally 
relied upon for longitude, in voyages across the Atlantic, 
and the laborious process of lunar distances is seldom 
resorted to. The chronometer constantly indicates the 
true time at Greenwich, and by the sun's altitude the 
ship's latitude and time are easily found ; and the ship's 
time subtracted from the chronometer time, and the dif- 
ference converted into degrees and minutes, is the longi- 
tude of the ship, from Greenwich, at the time. 

The wind has gradually veered round, through the 
north, to the east, and by 4 o'clock this afternoon, was 
blowing a fresh breeze directly opposite to eur course. 
It has been, during the day, quite chilly, so much so as 



LONDON AND THE GHEAT EXHIBITION. 23 



to render it uncomfortable remaining on deck without an 
over-coat. The expectation is now prevalent on board 
that, if no accident befall us, we shall see land before 
to-morrow night. 

June 11. Wednesday.— Rose this morning about 3 
o'clock and went on deck just in season to enjoy the 
most splendid sun-rise I ever witnessed. For the first 
time, since we left New York, the sky was clear at that 
point of the horizon, where the sun appeared to emerge 
from the ocean. At a little height above the horizon, 
narrow belts and small flocks of clouds, were stretc! .e.l 
and scattered along the northeastern sky, winch, as the 
sun arose, became lighted up and tinged in the most 
gorgeous manner. The various shades, from the most 
dazzling brightness to hues of u grave and sober aspect/ 1 
were so arranged and blended, that imagination could 
hardly conceive any thing equally splendid and beauti- 
ful. In this case there was none of that distortion of the 
sun's image by atmospheric refraction, which I have de- 
scribed, as seen at the sun's setting on the Grand Bank. 
Indeed, the eye could scarcely detect any deviation, in 
the form of his disc, from a perfect circle. 

While exulting in the brightness of the sunny morning, 
and in the anticipation of a charming day, I was sorry 
to observe that the experienced seamen on board were 
indulging anticipations of a very different nature. Yea, 
some of them averred, at the time, that such a sunrise 
was a certain indication of an approaching storm, and 
that we might depend upon experiencing one within 
twenty-four hours. I had no faith in the prediction when 
it was uttered, but long before noon the sky was com- 
pletely overcast with clouds, and the fogs and mists were 



24 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

seen to be gathering around us and contracting the held 
of our vision, and about noon the storm commenced with 
a strong wind from the south. I observed that Capt. 
Wotton was constantly on deck striving to penetrate, by 
his vision, tile dense fog which surrounded us, and, about 
1 o'clock, the intelligence was announced that we were 
in sight of land. We were close in upon the Sciily Islands 
and headed directly towards them, and fortunate it was 
that we reached here by day-light. Had we arrived 
here in the night, in such a fog, we should have been in 
imminent danger of running upon these rocky islets be- 
fore they were discovered. The ship's course was im- 
mediately changed to the south, and we coasted along 
for a considerable distance close in upon the islands. 
These islands appear, through the fog and rain, to con- 
sist almost entirely of rocks with very little vegetation, 
and, all around, sharp-pointed rocks are seen projecting 
above the surface of the ocean. They exhibit, in their 
sharp pinnacles, abrupt precipices and deep chasms, an 
outline unlike any thing we have in the northern part of 
the United States, and one, if I rightly judge, which in- 
dicates the rocks to be of igneous origin,* although I am 
totally ignorant of their geological character. 

The storm was raging with considerable violence be- 
fore we had passed the Sciily Islands and Lizard's Point: 
and as we passed along, the wind was driving directly 
towards those rocky shores, and we were so near them 
that we could plainly see, through the fog and mist, the 
waves as they lashed themselves into foam upon the 

*Tho correctness of this conjecture, in relation to the geological charac- 
ter of the Sciily Islands, was afterwards verified by the examination of a 
geological map of England. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 25 

rocks and threw volumes of spray into the air. As night 
was closing in upon us under these circumstances, I 
became well assured that we were about encountering 
the most perilous part of our voyage, and, especially, 
when I saw the sailors busily and silently employed in 
removing the covering from the life-boats and putting 
them in readiness for service. I was up till midnight, 
when, having finished some short letters which I wished 
to have mailed at Southampton, I went on deck, and 
was told by-Capt. Wotton that we were just then pass- 
ing the Edy stone Light-house,* whose light was dimly 
seen through the fog and storm, which had experienced 
no abatement. 

June 12. Thursday. — At half past 12 at night, I 
turned into my berth and slept about three hours, when 
I arose and found the storm still raging. At 6 A. M. the 
Franklin's engine was stopped, for the first time, since 
we left New York, and a pilot was taken on board to 
conduct the ship into the harbor of Cowes. About 7 we 

* This celebrated monument of the mechanical genius of Smeaton is 
built uppn a reef of rocks situated outside of Plymouth Sound and 14 
miles from Plymouth. The reef is 700 feet long and is entirely covered 
at high tide, and shipwrecks upon it were very common in former times. 
A light-house was built here in 1696, which was swept away in 1703 
Inl708 another was built, which was burned in 1755. The present 
Eddystone Light-house was finished by Mr. Smeaton in 1759. It is 100 
feet high, the lantern being 72 feet above high water. The stones of"its 
base are dove-tailed into the rock on which it stands, and each tier of 
stones is dove-tailed into the tier below, so that the whole shaft is like 
one stone joined to the rock, and its form is like that of the boll ,or trunk, 
of a tree, from the root to the limbs. The vertical curve produced by the 
contraction of the broad base into the narrow shaft, causes the momentum 
of the waves to be expended in rising up.the side of the shaft, instead of 
beating, with their full force, against it. 
3* 



26 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

passed the celebrated natural curiosity called the Needles, 
and entered the channel separating tliG Isle of Wight 
from the main land. These Needles consist of several 
sharp pointed rocks, which rise some 20 or 30 feet oxt 
of the water, at a little distance from the shore, and have 
very much the form of shark's teeth. The northwestern 
extremity of the Isle of Wight is formed by a lofty per- 
pendicular chalk cliff, and the channel between this cliff 
and the main land is quite narrow. In this channel, at 
the distance of, perhaps, 20 rods from the foot of the 
cliff, these Needles are situated. There are three of 
them, whose bases appeared to be united at the surface 
of the water, and were evidently formed by the wearmg 
away of the softer parts ®f the rock, which was, formerly, 
a prolongation of the point now constituting the chalk 
cliff. On account of the narrowness of the channel and 
the many concealed rocks, thG passage of the Needles is 
considered somewhat difficult and dangerous at certain 
stages of the tide, and hence the necessity of a pilot, who 
is well acquainted with the channel. 



Wm- 




The above cut is from a sketch, which I attempted, 
white passing the Needles, and may give so:*ne idea of 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 2T 

their appearance. My nearness to the objects and the 
rapid change in the view, rendered it impossible to do 
justice to the scene. The color of the Needles was that 
of a gray, weather-beaten limestone. That of the per- 
pendicular chalk cliff behind them was, very nearly, a 
pure white. The lower parts of the cliff at the left, 
had a ferruginous hue, as if stained with iron rust. 
The top of the cliff was covered with a thin soil, pro- 
ducing stinted grass. 

It was about 9 A. M. when we arrived in the harbor 
of Cowes, and about two hours were spent in transfer- 
ring passengers for England to a little steamer, whieh 
was to convey them to Southampton, which is on th ? 
head of an inlet into the main land opposite to Cowes 
and distant about 15 miles. These amounted to about 
one half of the whole number of the Franklin's passen- 
gers. 

Cowes is a small place, but is beautifully situated on 
a small bay, or indentation, in the Isle of Wight. The 
ground rises gradually from the ocean for a short dis- 
tance, and then quite abruptly. The place abounds in 
shads trves, among which the houses, some of which are 
elegant, are seen straggling up the acclivity, and the 
whole, as seen from the water, would furnish materials 
for a very beautiful picture. To tlie eastward of Cowes, 
on the main land, lie Gosport and Portsmouth, the 
great naval station of Great Britain 

At 11 o'clock the Franklin, having taken on board a 
pilot to conduct the ship into port, was again under way 
and proceeding towards Havre. The storm, at this 
time, had considerably abated, and before one o'clock, 
had entirely ceased. During the afternoon the clouds 



28 



JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



gradually cleared away and the weather became fine 
and agreeable. Just after leaving Cowes we had a good 
view of Queen Victoria's country Palace on the Isle of 
Wight, called the Osborne House, and at 4 P. M. we 
had the satisfaction of beholding, in the distance, the 
coast of France. 

During our voyage, I had endeavored to take notes of 
our progress, and of our position, from day to day, but 
having failed of noting some particulars, which I desir- 
ed, I asked Capt. Wotton if he would allow them to be 
copied from his Log Book. He readily assented, and, 
to day, has furnished me with the following interesting 
Abstract of his Log-Book, from the time of our leaving 
New York till our arrival at Cowes. 

ABSTRACT LOG. 





New York to Cowes — Steam Ship, Franklin 






JAS. - 


\. WOTTON, COMMANDER. 


Date 


Latitudel Long. 


List. 


Thermo, i Barom. Rotations) Coal. 


Neon. 


Worth. | West. 


Run. 



Air. Water Inches.; Engine. 

i 


Tens. 


May 31 


40o 


42'i74« 


2 


1 




1 




Ju 


ne 1 


l 40 


33 .69 


10 


227 


65 


56 


30,00 ' 


16,840 


71. 




' 2 


40 


57,63 


30 


26(3 


56 


50 


29,10 


18,743 


70. 




1 3 


41 


40 58 


21 


230 


70 


70 


29,30 


18,957 


69. 




< 4 


43 


31 


52 


53 


265 


53 


51 


29,60 


18,762 


68. 




1 5 


45 


26 


47 


8 


270 


56 


46 


29,50 


20,445 


67. 




1 6 


47 


57 


41 


50 


262 


50 


54 


29,40 


19,830 


69. 




' 7 


49 


44 


35 


36 


273 


60 


70 


29,50 


20,623 


71. 




1 8 50 


41 


28 


55 


263 


70 


60 


29,60 


22,777 


69. 




< 9 51 


13 


21 


29 


283 


70 


60 


29,60 


21,460 


71. 




« 10 50 


19 


13 


55 


300 


60 


56 


29,50 


21,387 


09. 




« 11 50 


5 


6 


55 


278 


60 


56 


29,40 


21,387 


69. 


" 12 


50 


48 


1 


20 


220 


54 


i 53 


29,60 


18,117 58. 


. .. 








3131 


1 




1239,328 


b21 



We left New York 
ed Cowes, June 12th, 



at 2 P. M., May 31st, and reach- 
at 9 A. M., making 11 days 19 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 29 

hours, from which, deducting 5 hours, for difference of 
longitude, leaves 11 days 14 hours for the length of the 
passage. 

In the above table, the amount of coal consumed has 
appeared more surprising to me than any thing else. 
Little did I think that a Steam-Ship required the daily 
consumption of 70 tons of coal, and more than 800 tons 
in a passage across the Atlantic. The Franklin drew 
near three feet less water, on her arrival atCowes, than 
on leaving New York, in consequence of the lightning 
of the ship by the consumption of her stock of coal. 
The Franklin's tonnge is about 2500 tons, and hence 
one third of her full freight must, necessarily, be fuel. 

As we approached Havre, we had a fine view of the 
chalk cliffs, which form the coast of France, and stretch 
off from the mouth of the Seine towards the straits 
of Dover. The shore all along appeared to be quite 
precipitous, with an undulating country lying beyond, 
b:it, presenting to the eye no elevations of much height. 
We arrived in the mouth of the Seine about 7 o'clock, 
but was half past 8 before the ship was warped into 
her dock at Havre — so late that I, and many others 
have concluded to remain on board till morning. The 
vertical rise of the tide at Havre is 22 feet, and it is on- 
ly at particular stages of the tide, that ships can conven- 
iently enter the harbor. 

June 13. Friday. — This morning, for the first time, 
pressed, with my feet, the soilofcontinental Europe. At 
8 o'clock our baggage was taken on shore and convey- 
ed to the Custom House for inspection, and our pass- 
ports were sent to the Passport office, while I sought a 
breakfast at one of the Hotelb. After breakfast 1 went 



83 JOURNAL OF A TRIPT TO PARIS, 



to the Custom House, and pointed out my baggage, con- 
sisting of a large trunk and box of specimens of fishes 
and reptiles for the Museum of Natural History of Paris; 
when, at it they went, with hammer and chisel, and 
had the cover off before I could make them listen to 
any explanation. Their havoc was at length stopped, 
and. being satisfied of the nature and object of the con- 
tents, they nailed on the cover again. By the payment 
of a fee of three francs I got possession of my baggage 
again, and then went in pursuit of my passport. After 
waiting at the Passport Office some time for my turn, I 
was furnished with a passport in French, and was told 
that I should find my American passport at the office of 
the Prefect of Police in Paris; and this is done. T under- 
stand, merely to furnish the officials an excuse for ex- 
acting a fee of two francs. I spent no time in looking 
about Havre, but hastened with my baggage to the 
Rail-Way Station, and secured a passage in the 11 
o'clock train to Paris. The expenses incurred in the 3 
hours in Havre, from 8 till 11, gave me a somewhat 
bitter foretaste of the cost of travelling in France. 
They were, 3 francs at the Custom House, 2 francs for 
passport, 2 francs for breakfast, 3 francs for guide. 3 
for transportation and cab hire, and 2G I for fare of self, 
and 5 for baggage, to Paris, making in all 43 £ francs, 
equal to $8,70. I took passage in a First Class car. 
The second Class cars are respectable and equally 
comfortable, and, should save some 4 or 5 francs, if I 
could take passage in one of them, but there were none 
going up in the train, and I am told that they are quite 
careful not to run any 2d Class Cars immediately after 
the arrival of our Steamers, thus compelling all the pas- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 31 

sengers, who proceed on to Paris, to pay first class fare. 

The train left Havre at 11 A. M., and reached Paris 
at 5 P. M. The distance is 111 miles, and it was pas- 
sed over in just six hours, including' the stops at the 
way stations. The aspect of every thing here is quite 
unlike any thing seen in the United States. The chalk 
cliffs at the mouth of the Seine and frequently peeping 
out along its course — the brown and dingy aspect of the 
ancient cities of Havre and Rouen, the former with its 
vast military defences and the latter with its august 
cathedral — the farms, in the shape of long and narrow 
parallelograms, stretching up the gentle slope of the 
sides of the valley and checked by the growing crops, 
into squares, resembling the patch-work of a quilt 
— the old and decaying mansions surrounded by con- 
temptible thatched cottages — these are objects, of which 
fresh and vigorous New England furnishes no counter- 
parts. 

The Rail-Way from Havre to Paris has nearly a level 
grade, and is, consequently, carried through some ten 
or a dozen tunnels, two of which, I should judge, from 
the time required to pass through them, to be each about 
a mile in length. Lamps were kept burning in the tops 
of the cars, nearly all the way from Havre to Paris, for 
the purpose of dispelling the darkness and gloom in pass- 
ing through the tunnels. The rocks in sight along the 
way appear to be all of the chalk formation, and the 
tunnels, for the most part, pass through beds of pulver- 
ulent chalk, filled with flint or hornstone nodules, and 
are lined with brick masonry. The soil, generally, ap- 
pears to rest upon vast beds of pulverized chalk. 

On my arrival in Paris, I took lodgings at the Hotel cies 



82 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

Elraugers, Rue Tronchet, 24. This hotel is in a cen- 
tral part of the city, and but a few steps from the great 
Madeleine Church. It is kept by an Englishman by the 
the name of Sanders, and is made the stopping place of 
many English and American travellers, while sojourning 
in Paris. These circumstances guided my selection, 
and when I reached the hotel, I found that, at this time 
there are several Americans here. 

June 14. Saturday. — This morning, about 10 o'clock, 
I succeeded in finding my way to the residence of my 
kind friend, Mr. Vattemare, in Rue de Clichy, 58, and 
had the good fortune to find him at home. Indeed, he 
was almost literally buried among his books, being en- 
gaged in packing a large box, to be forwarded to the 
United States by the Franklin, on the first of July. Mr. 
Vattemare welcomed me with great cordiality, and, af- 
ter showing me through his book rooms, he introduced 
me to his family. He then showed me his very exten- 
sive collection of coins and medals. The collection of 
American coins is more complete than any I have be- 
fore seen, and among these were three or four copper 
coins, issued in Vermont previous to her admission into 
the Union. Among the medals were very many, which 
had been struck in different countries, in honor of Mr. 
Vattamare himself and his noble system of Internation- 
al Exchanges. 

About noon we took our seats in an omnibus and 
proceeded to the Jar dm des-Pla?ites, or Garden of Plants, 
which is situated in the extremity of the city nearly 
opposite to that in which Mr. Vattemanfe resides. We 
first visited the library, where I was introduced to M. 
Desnoyes, Librarian of the Museum of Natural History, 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 83 

and, after spending a short time there, proceeded to the 
rooms of the Mineralogical and Geological collections. 
At the latter place I was introduced to the Professor of 
Geology, M. de Orbigny, who made me a present of his 
elaborate Geological Map of the Paris basin. I found 
him to be a very pleasant and agreeable man, and ex- 
tremely modest and unassuming in his manners. In 
the mineralogical department, I noticed some exceeding- 
ly large and beautiful specimens of meteoric iron. 

Mr. Vattemare having an engagement, we returned 
between 4 and 5 P. M., and, after getting my dinner, I 
went alone to see the triumphal arch at the head of the 
Avenue de Neuilly, called Arc de Triomphe de V Etoile. 
This is the most magnificent and imposing triumphal 
arch in Paris, and. probably, is not exceeded by any in 
the world. It was begun by Napoleon in 1806, but 
was not finished till 1836. It was erected as a monu- 
ment of the achievements and glory of the French na- 
tion. It is built of marble, is 152 feet high, 137 wide 
an! 6S thick, consisting of two arches crossing at the 
center. On the exterior, and within the arches, are rep- 
resentations of warriors, and horsemen, and arms, and 
battles, beautifully carved in bold relief. From the top 
of this arch is obtained the most complete view of the 
whole city of Paris, and a large extent of surrounding 
country. Its cost was $1,500,000. I could not look 
upon this noble and imposing structure, without admi- 
ration, but the pleasure of beholding it, was greatly mar- 
red by the reflection that, it was designed to commemo- 
rate and honor the success of armies in bringing misery 
and destruction, instead of prosperity and happiness, to 
the family of man. I returned to my lodgings by way of 



34 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



Champs Ely sees and Place de la Concorde, which were 
thronged with people of all ages and sexes, who appear- 
ed to have no other object, than to amuse themselves and 
pass away time. 

June 15. Sunday. — My first Sunday in Europe has 
come and gone, and the shades of its evening are now 
gathered around me, but how unlike it has been to a 
Sunday in New England ! None of that solemn stillness 
— that sacred reverence of the day, to which I had al- 
ways been accustomed. More, perhaps, were to be 
seen, in the morning, flocking to the confessional, than 
on other days, and manual labor was, to a considerable 
extent, suspended, but the shops were generally open 
for trade, peddlers were crying their goods for sale in 
the streets, and many women were sitting at the doors 
of their shops and upon the shaded side-walks, employ- 
ed with their needles. 

For the sake of a little exercise before breakfast, I 
walked out to look at the great Madeleine Church. 
I walked entirely round it, leisurely surveying the nu- 
merous and gigantic columns and statues, and then en- 
tered it to look at the interior, which I found to be ex- 
ceedingly magnificent, abounding in beautiful columns, 
and sculptures, and paintings, with a large portion of 
the ceiling over head splendidly gilded. People were 
constantly'entering^and departing from the Church, and 
a considerable number within were silently engag- 
ed in their devotions. 

This noble edifice has the rectangular form of a Gre- 
c : an temple, and is without spire, tower or dome. It 
h built of marble — was begun by Louis XV, in 1764, 
and finished by Louis XVIII. It is 226 feet long, 130 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 



feet wide, and surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns, G 
feet in diameter at their base and 60 feet high. All a- 
round the exterior there are niches in the wall, con- 
taining sculptured statues oi male and female saints. 
The great door at the south front is of bronze, and is 32 
feet high and 15.1 wide. Over it, in the gable, is an 
immense alto-relievo sculpture, 118 feet long and 25 
high in the centre, designed to represent the day of 
judgement. 

At 11 A. M. I attended service at the Chapel of the 
English Ambassador. This Chapel is very neatly fit- 
ted interiorly, and will seat, I should judge, between six 
and seven hundred; and I found it very well filled. 
Three Clergymen officiated, one reading the lessons and 
prayers, another the ante-communion service, and the 
third preached. The sermon was good and practical, 
but not brilliant, and the musb was thrilling, even in my 
dull ear. 

At half past 5, I went to Mr. Vattemare's, having re- 
ceived a note from him this morning, inviting me to 
dine with him at 6 o'clock this afternoon. This inter- 
esting family consists of himslf and wife, his mother, 
son-in-law and married daughter, with one child, a 
daughter about 16, and a maiden lady about 30 years 
old. About half past seven o'clock two Roman Cath- 
olic Priests, one of whom acts as Chaplain to Mr. Vat- 
temare's family, came in to spend the evening. I pass- 
ed the time very pleasantly, but most of the company 
could converse only in French, and my knowledge of 
that language was too slight to allow me to be much ed- 
ified by their conversation. I returned to my lodgings 
about 10 o'clock, and have since been writing down the 



36 JOURNAL OF A TRIPT TO PARIS, 



occurrences of the day and reflecting upon the manner 
in which the Sabbath is here observed. The noise and 
bustle in the streets, though of a somewhat different 
kind, seems to be nearly as great, and the number of 
people greater, than on any of the other days of the 
week. Indeed, on Sunday all the houses seem to be 
emptied of their living contents into the streets, and 
squares, and promonades, some on their way to and 
from their devotions in the Churches, but a vast majority 
of them, apparently, seeking only amusement. The ex- 
hibition of waterworks at St. Clond, 5 miles from Paris, 
has, to day, drawn off thousands from this city to wit- 
ness and enjoy it. Indeed, Sunday, here, is the great 
day for shows, and circuses, and amusements of almost 
every description. 

June 16. Monday. — Went this morning to the Bourse, 
or Exchange, and called at the Express office of Liv- 
ingston & Wells, which is very near it, where I had an 
opportunity too see recent American Newspapers, and 
wrote my name in a book, kept there for recording the 
names and residences of visitors from the United States. 
The Exchange is a fine modern edifice, built of stone. 
It is 212 feet long and 12G wide, and is surrounded by a 
continuous range of 66 columns. At half past ten A. M. 
I went to Mr. Vattemare's, where I was introduced to 
Mr. Mohl, Corresponding Secretary of the Oriental So- 
ciety, and a very distinguished Oriental scholar. About 
noon Mr. Yattemare went with me to the Hotel de Yille, 
or city hall, to look at the city library there, and the 
nucleus of the American library, which he is forming. 
This beginning of a Library of American books, though 
a mere trifl? compared with the city library, in the same 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 37 

building, would appear quite respectable in Vermont, 
being about half the size of that of the Vermont Univer- 
sity. Mr. V. imforms me that he has the pledge of the 
authority of Paris, that they will provide a suitable 
building for his American Library, in a central part ol 
the city, with an alcove for each State, and the coat of 
arms of the State placed over it. Mr. V. has, at his 
rooms in Rue de Clichy, a large quantity of books, which 
are to form a part of the Library of American books, as 
soon as rooms are in readiness for their reception. 

From the city hall we went to the celebrated cathe- 
dral church of Notre Dame, This is one of the oldest, 
largest and most remarkable churches in Paris. It 
stands upon an island in the river, which was the an- 
cient nucleus around which the present city of Paris has 
grown up. I do not learn when it was commenced but 
I find it stated that service was performed in it in the 
year 1185. It is in the form of a cross, is 390 feet, long, 
144 wide and 102 feet high at the transcept. The tow- 
ers are 204 feet high, and its immense bell is said to 
weigh 32,000 pounds. The interior consists of the nave 
and double isles, and along the sides, are numerous beau- 
tiful chapels, some of which are sufficiently large for 
village churches. Its large windows are of stained glass, 
and the whole interior was much filled and ornamented 
with pictures, and statues, and crosses, and images. 
Among the ornamental sculptures of the immense dome, 
and nearly over the great altar, numerous sparrows had 
builded their nests and were rearing their young, and 
their chattering reminded me of the words of the Psalm- 
ist, 

"The sparrow hath found her an house, where she may lay her young; 
even thy altars, O Lord of Hosts." 

The great Organ, in this church, is said to be remarka- 



BS JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

bly fine, and the west front and towers of the church aro 
much admired by architects. 

From Notre Dame Church we proceeded to the Halle 
mix Vins, or the Paris Wine Vaults. These are situat- 
ed adjacent to the Garden of Plants, and, with the offi- 
ces of the wine dealers, cover 23 acres. Mr. Vattemare 
introduced me to M. Sari, the Superintendent, who 
kindly spent, at least, two hours in showing us through 
the caves and cellars, and in describing the extent of the 
business and the manner of doing it, and I must say that 
I have seen nothing, since I left home, which has aston- 
ished me more than this establishment. These vaults 
are capable of containing half a million casks, and the 
business gives daily employment to more than 3000 
persons, who are, most of the time, in the midst of the 
fumes of wine and brandy, and yet it is the most quiet 
and orderly place I have seen in Paris. The wines and 
spirits, from the country, are brought here and stored for 
sale. When sold and delivered, then the Government 
duties on them are paid, which, I am told, usually ex- 
ceeds the original value of the article. The method of 
measuring the liquors is extremely simple, expeditious 
and exact. The apparatus is so arranged that the casks 
are drawn upon a platform, and their contents emptied 
into receiving vessels with graduated scales showing 
the quantity. The empty casks are let down below, 
the liquor returned into them, bunged up, and the quan- 
tity in each cask stamped upon it. On leaving the place 
the Superintendent kindly engaged to furnish me, while 
in Paris, additional particulars respecting the establish- 
ment and an abstract of the actual business transactions. 
I spent the little time remaining before night, in the Gar- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 39 

den of Plants, looking at the living animals, (among 
which I saw very few from the United States) and then 
returned, very much fatigued, to my lodgings. 

June 17. Tuesday. — This being Flower Market Day 
at Place de la Madeleine, I walked over there this morn- 
ing to look at the display of flowers exhibited for sale. 
I found a large number of people employed in unload- 
ing, from their carts, flowers and flower-pots, and ar- 
ranging them in tasteful order, and I was quite aston- 
ished at their multiplicity and variety. Some were in 
bouquets, placed in vessels of water, but far the greater 
part, were accompanied by the whole plants, growing in 
flower-pots. Among them were numerous varieties of 
roses, pinks, geraniums, asters, daisies, &c, together with 
many flowers, which, to me, were entirely new. 

Paris is sometimes called the City of Fashions. I 
think it might also be called the City of Flowers. Be- 
sides the flowers brought in from the country and sub- 
urbs, flowers are cultivated in the city upon almost ev- 
ery foot of ground, which can be had for that purpose. 
Flower plots are met with almost every where, and 
some of them are very extensive and beautiful. Fairs 
for the sale of flowers are held, at this season, every day 
in the week. Two days, Tuesday and Friday, of each 
week, the Fair is at Place de la Madeleine] and I see it 
stated that, on some occasions, not less than 50, OOOydow- 
er pots, valued at 75, 000 francs, are exposed, at the same 
time, in the market place. Selling flowers here is really 
a great business. 

At 11 o'clock Mr. Vattemare accompanied me to the 
Garden of Plants, and I took along with me the speci- 
mens of Vermont Fishes and Reptiles which I had 



40 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

brought out for the Museum of Natural History of Paris. 
Went first to the residence of the distinguished ichthy- 
ologist, M. Valenciennes, and, finding him sick, proceed- 
ed to the Museum, where I had my specimens opened, 
and, on seeing in how bad condition they were, I was 
well-nigh sick myself. I had been at the trouble to pro- 
cure specimens of about 30 species of our fishes and 
some 10 or 12 species of reptiles, and had them inclos- 
ed in a tin box filled with alcohol, and then soldered up 
air tight, and this box was inclosed in another of wood. 
But, notwitstanding all my labor and care, full one half 
of the specimens were completely spoiled. I had put 
too many specimens together, and they were so nearly 
afloat in the alcohol, that the motion of the ship kept 
them constantly moving and wearing upon one another, 
and the consequence was, that all the softer fishes were 
nearly dissolved. The reptiles and hard scaled fishes 
were in much better condition, and some of them scarce- 
ly injured at all. 

After disposing of my fishes and reptiles, I took a 
stroll through the green houses, which are very exten- 
sive, and well filled with a great variety of tropical plants. 
I could there walk in the midst of groves of palm trees, 
35 feet high and 6 or 8 inches in diameter, without en- 
countering the dangers and inconveniences of a tropical 
elimfcte. The varieties of cactus, cultivated, are exceed- 
ingly numerous, many of them being singularly gro- 
tesque in shape, and gigantic in size. Outside of the green 
house, on an elevated part of the Garden, stands a no- 
ble cedar of Lebanon. It was set out here by the elder 
Jessieu, in 1735, and is now a little more than three feet 
in diameter, 6 feet from the ground. Its branches are 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 41 

mostly near the top and stretch out horizontally 12 or 
15 feet in all directions. This tree, together with the 
palms in the green houses, reminded me of the beautiful 
figure of the Psalmist, when he says, 

"The righteous shall flourish as the palm tree, and shall spread abroad 
like the cedar in Libanus." 

From the green houses, I went through the inclosures, 
in which plants are cultivated in the open air, and was 
there introduced to the Professor of Botany. These in- 
closures are very extensive, and the plants are admira- 
bly arranged and labelled, for facilitating the study of 
scientific Botany. The label contains the scientific 
name of the plant, and, if exotic, the country from which 
it was obtained. From the botanical department, I 
went into the division occupied by living reptiles, where 
I remained a while, and then passed along to the muse- 
um of Comparative Anatomy, in which the celebrated 
Cuvier labored with so much diligence and success, and, 
near which, a statue is erected to his memory. I found 
here many skeletons of Cetacea, but no Beluga, with 
which to compare my fossil cetacean bones found in 
Vermont, some of which I have with me. Wearied 
and footsore, I reached my lodgings about sunset, and 
thus closed my perambulations for the day. 

June 18. Wednesday. — Took a long stroll alone thro' 
the northern part of the city, and reached Mr. Vatte- 
mare's a little before noon, where I met the distinguish- 
ed naturalist, M. Michili, to whom I had brought out a 
letter of introduction from Mr. Desor. At one o'clock I 
went with Mr. Vattemare to the meeting of the National 
and Central Agricultural Society. Mr. V. introduced me 
to the President, and to the Secretary M. Delegarde, before 



42 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

the meeting was called to order. After the meeting was 
opened I was formally introduced to the Society as a 
distinguished foreigner! The discussions were ani- 
mated, and much interest was manifested in the busi- 
ness of the meeting, but I was unable to profit by these 
discussions as I might have done with a better knowl- 
edge of the French language. After the meeting I was 
invited by the Secretary, M. Delegarde, to dine with him 
the next day at 5 P. M. 

On my return, I visited the Lithographic establishment 
of Lemercier, said to be the most extensive in the world. 
From one position I could look down upon more than 
100 lithographic presses all in operation at the same 
time. Many of the prints were run through, from 4 to 
7 different presses, receiving a different color from each, 
and it was really surprising to see the facility with 
which elegant colored pictures were multiplied and the 
delicacy with which the colors were laid on by the 
printing-press. I next went to the Louvre, that world 
renowned repository of pictures, statues and choice an- 
tiquities. This noble building is in the form of a quad- 
rangle, aronnd an open court. Its eastern front is 
magnificent, being 500 feet long and 85 feet high, and 
finished in the finest style of architecture. It is in 
contemplation to have the Louvre fully united with 
the Tuilleries, forming the whole into one immense 
block. These two' buildings contain objects of inter- 
est, for the examination of which, weeks would be re- 
quired. I have hardly begun to look at them to day. 
The Garden of Tuilleries is a delightful place. That 
portion next the palace is beautifully laid out and cul- 
tivated, with flowers, orange trees <^c, and has several 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 43 

reservoirs and fountains, while more than half of the 
grounds, is thickly covered with large trees, beneath 
which the earth is hard and smooth, without veg- 
etation, and forming delightful walks in a hot day. 
Among the other objects iii the Garden, are interspers- 
ed a number of fine statues. 

June 19. Thursday. — Awoke this morning with 
a very sore throat, and so hoarse I could hardly speak, 
in consequence, I have no doubt, of a cold, taken yes- 
terday, while sitting in the great hall of the Agricul- 
tural Meeting, after exercising under a hot sun. But, 
notwithstanding these and a severe head-ache, I ven- 
tured to accompany Mr. Vattemare to a meeting of the 
Central Horticultural Society of France. I was intro- 
duced to the meeting, as interested in Horticultural 
pursuits, and was cordially received. The Society, 
through the President, presented me their silver medal 
and requested me to become a corresponding member 
of the Society. The principal subjects discussed were 
the diseases of vegetables, and many specimens of dis- 
eased plants were exhibited. 

On my return from the horticultural meeting, I 
stopped awhile at the Palais Royal, where I had the 
pleasure of witnessing the ascension of a monster bal- 
loon, carrying up six persons in a car suspended under 
it. There was no wind, and the carriage of the aerial 
travellers mounted very gracefully through the air. I 
watched it, till it had reached, at least, a mile above 
the earth's surface, and then went to look at the an- 
cient church of St. Germain VAuxerrois. This 
church is celebrated for being the place from which 
the signal was given for the commencement of the 



44 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

horrid massacre, on the Eve of St. Bartholomew's Day, 
the 23d of August, 1572. The bells of this church are 
said to have been tolled, during the whole of that 
dreadful night. The windows of stained glass, and 
some of the chapels in this church, are quite beauti- 
ful. We entered the church just at the close of a re- 
ligious service, but not in season to hear anything 
more than the last chant of the confirmation office ; 
the Bishop having been administering the rite of con- 
firmation to about 100 candidates, who were distin- 
guished by their white robes. 

June 20. Friday. — Had a very restless night, with 
considerable pain in my head and limbs, a hard cough, 
with soreness in the throat and across the chest, and no 
appetite for food, — symptoms indicating, I fear, an 
attack of lung-fever. The prospect of being sick so 
far from home, is, certainly, not a very agreeable one, 
but it would be more gloomy, did I uot think that, in 
case of need, I could rely upon the kind attention of 
my friend, Mr. Vattemare, and that, if I should die 
here, he would inform my friends in America of the 
fact.- But I hope, by the blessing of God, that the 
necessity of doing neither of these will be imposed 
upon him, and that I may soon get the better of my 
present indisposition. 

Feeling that my alternatives were, either to go to 
bed, or to be moving about in the open air, I resolved 
upon the latter, and about noon dragged myself to the 
residence of M. Verneuil, the distinguished Geologist, 
to whom I brought a letter from Mr. Desor, but was sor- 
ry to learn that he was away on a geological excur- 
sion in Spain. I also called at the office of the Amer- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 45 

icati Legation, and left a letter to our Minister, Mr. 
Rives, which was entrusted to my care by my friend 
and college -class-mate, Orson Kellogg, of New York. 
In the afternoon I made my way to the Biblwtheque 
da Roij or National Library, on rue Richelieu. This 
is one of the largest, if not the very largest, library in 
the world. The building, containing it, is 540 feet 
long, and 130 feet in width. The contents are stated 
at 1,000,000 printed books and pamphlets, 100,000 
manuscripts, 100,000 medals, 1,400,000 engravings, 
and 300.000 maps. Among the manuscripts, are many, 
which are very ancient and interesting. I spent some 
time in turning over the pages and admiring the illus- 
trations of what is said to be the original manuscript 
of Froissarfs Chronicles of the Kings of France and 
England. It is most clearly and beautifully written, 
with illuminated capitals, and richly bound. Con- 
nected with the library, there is a fine collection of an- 
cient statues, armour, coins, &c. I noticed some splen- 
did ancient cameos, beautifully sculptured, I think, in 
onyx-stone. Some of them were as large as a com- 
mon sized breakfast plate, and several were set in 
frames of pure massive gold. Among the armour were 
many brazen helmets and coats of mail, which were 
worn by the ancient Kings of France. 

June 21. Saturday — Was very much fatigued by 
my efforts yesterday, and retired feeling quite unwell, 
but, getting a little sleep during the night, I found my- 
self somo better this morning. I have, however, 
coughed almost incessantly. Spent most of the fore- 
noon, with Mr. Vattemare, at his rooms, and in the af- 
5 



46 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



tcrnoon he accompanied me to the Champ de Mars, 
to witness a review of troops by Napoleon, the Presi- 
dent of France. Champ de Mars is a clean level plat 
in the southern part of the city, which is half a mile 
long and one eighth of a mile wide, and is used for 
parades, reviews and races. The number of troops re- 
viewed to day was said to be 20,000. The whole 
number in and about Paris is near 100,000. I saw 
Napoleon only at a distance, on horseback, and could 
discover nothing about him, which would lead me to 
think him anything more than a man. But. judging 
from what I hear said, I should think he had been, of 
late, gaining in the estimation of the better part of the 
nation, and that they would prefer that he should con- 
tinue to hold the reins of government, rather than risk 
the experiment of a change. 

The review did not confirm the favorable opinion I 
had formed of the appearance of the French troops. 
The men did not appear to me to be either remarkably 
well sized, or well trained; nor was there that regular- 
ity and precision in their evolutions and movements, 
which I had expected. The horses made a sorry ap- 
pearance. There were many stout heavy bodied hors- 
es, particularly those attached to the artillery, but I 
noticed very few, which moved with the easy and gra- 
ceful majesty, which are characteristic of many of our 
American horses. Many of them had that stiff, pound- 
ing gait, which, in the view of a Yermonter, would, at 
once, characterize them as French Horses. 

On my return from Camp de Mars, stopped at the 
Hotel des Invalides. This very extensive establishment 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 47 

is for the reception of superanuated and disabled sold- 
iers, of whom more than 4000 are here daily fed, and 
for the most part, lodged, at the public expense. This 
establishment occupies 18 acres. The main building 
is 612 feet long, 4 stories high and lighted by 133 
windows, besides attics. The gilded dome, over 
that portion occupied as a church, has the richest ex- 
terior of any one in Paris. Directly beneath this 
dome is the tomb, in which, are deposited the earthly 
remains of the Emperer, Napoleon, which were brought 
hither from St. Helena. I visited the kitchen where 
the cooking is done for this great family. Every thing 
seemed well arranged, but on a gigantic scale. The 
soup-kettles would hold, at least, a barrel each. 

The sight of these shattered specimens of humani- 
ty, and the consideration of the causes, which brought 
them to their present condition, were calculated to 
produce melancholy reflections. Many of these men 
had carried the arms of France into foreign countries, 
and had fought and conquered under Bonaparte. They 
had marched erect, and firm, and irresistible on the 
field of battle, but now, how changed ! Scarred, and 
maimed, and bowed down by infirmity and disease, 
they are tottering towards their graves with weak and 
trembling steps. Many of them have lost a hand, or 
a foot, or a leg, or an arm, and some of them have bar- 
tered more than one of their limbs for the glory of a 
victory under Napoleon. Arranged in the yards of 
the establishment are many large cannon, which are 
preserved, as trophies of foreign victories. In these 



48 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

the enfeebled veterans proudly exult, and, among them, 
they daily, in imagination, 

"Fight all their battles o'er again." 

JVne 22. Sunday. — A rainy day; and my cough be- 
ing very bad, have not attended church. There has 
been a great display of Water- Works to day at Ver- 
sailles, and many Americans went out this morning to 
witness them. Versailles is 12 miles southwest from 
Paris, and the two places are connected by two Rail- 
Ways. The palace, picture galleries and fountains at 
Versailles are said to be ths most remarkable in France. 
The playing of the fountains there takes place only a 
few times in the course of the year, and thes? exhibi- 
tions, I am told, are almost always on Sunday, so that 
protestant travellers must, for the most part, either fore- 
go the pleasure of seeing them, or do violence to their 
consciences by breaking the Sabbath. To pass through 
all the rooms and galleries of pictures at Versailles, is 
said to require a walk of 7mi'es. 

JuNt; 23. Monday. — At Havre my American pass- 
port was taken from me, and I was furnished with a 
French passport to be taken with me to Paris. Hence 

jt becomes necessary, on leaving Paris, to regain my 
American passport, to enable me to go out of the coun- 
try, and proceed to England. For this purpose I went, 
to day, to the office of the Prefect of Police, where 1 
surrendered my French passport, and received the one 
which was taken from me at Havre, with instructions 
to have it certified by the American Secretary of Le- 
gation, and then brought back for further signature at 
the Police office. I followed the '^•struct ions, so far 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 40 



as to get the signature of the Secretary of Legation, 
but, believing that it was ordered back for further 
signature at the Police office, only for the purpose of 
claiming another fee of two or three francs, I have 
determined to disobey that part of the order, and risk 
the consequences. 

In the afternoon I went to Mr. Vattemare's rooms, 
and, thence, through a portion of the north part of the 
city, where I passed a parade ground, and had an op- 
portunity of witnessing the maneuvering and drilling 
of a division of the French troops. There were, per- 
haps, 12 or 15 hundred on the parade, in several dif- 
ferent squads. The evolutions and exercises were, to 
a considerable extent, unlike any thing I had ever wit- 
nessed in America. Most of the movements were 
very sudden and violent, and yet there seemed to be 
great exactness and precision in all the performances. 
Junk. 24. Tuesday.— Have visited, to day, the Pal- 
ace and Gardens of Luxembourg, the Pantheon, &e. 
These are all situated in the southern part of the city. 
The Gardens occupy, I should judge, about 40 acrea. 
The Palace fronts them on the north side, and is a 
large and elegant building, but, being situated lower 
than the grounds in front, it does not exhibit that 
grand and imposing aspect, it might have under other 
circumstances. It was built by Marie de Medicis, in 
1015. In 1795 the Directory held its sittings in this 
Palace, and under the Consulate, the Consuls had their 
sittings here. On the creation of the Chamber of Peers, 
in 1814, it became the place of their meetings. It 
contains a picture gallery, for the reception of the best 



50 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



works of living artists, which are purchased and plac- 
ed here by the government. In front of the Palace is 
a fountain and a beautiful pool of water, and the gar- 
dons furnish delightful promenades, with shady ave- 
nues, lined with fine marble statues. The broad and 
smooth avenue, leading from the front of the Palace, 
through the garden, and onward, in a strait line, to the 
National Astronomical Observatory, is very handsome. 
It was in this avenue, between the garden and the 
observatory, that Marshal Ney was shot, in IS 15. 
The southwestern section of the garden, is devoted to 
the cultivation of fruit trees, — mostly cherries and 
pears. The cherries are now ripening, and the young 
pears average, in size, a trifle larger than a ripe cherry. 
The pear trees are all trained in the form of sharp 
cones, which the French call Quenouillo (distaff) 
training. The trees appeared to be about 8 feet apart, 
and might average 12 feet in height. The lowest 
hmbs, in most cases, come out about 18 inches above 
the ground, and extend, horizontally, two or three feet. 
They are shortened, by cropping in above, giving the 
tree the shape of a cone. The advantages of this, ov- 
er the ordinary method, seem to consist in allowing 
more trees to grow on the same plat, and in making 
them more productive, in consequence of the horizon- 
tal traiuing of the limbs. 

From the Luxembourg I went to the Pantheon, 
which is situated only a few rods to the eastward, in 
Rue St. Jacques. It was finished in 1764, and I lock 
upon it as one of the most chaste and classic structures 
in Paris. It is in the form of a cross, being about 330 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 51 

feet long, 240 wide, and 282 feet to the top of the 
dome. The columns are very numerous, the whole 
number, within and about the edifice, being stated at 
258. The interior, which is all in one vast room, 
reaching upward to the crown of the dome, appears 
quite naked, there being only a few statues and paint- 
ings within, but these are of a high order. It was in 
this building, with a ball, suspended by a wire from 
the center of the great dome, and vibrating near the 
floor, that M. Faucault first demonstrated the earth's 
rotation on its axis, by rendering it visible to the eye. 
His apparatus is still here, but the ball is not suspend- 
ed. His graduated circle is in the form of a hoop, 
and elevated about 20 inches from the floor. Its di- 
ameter is-about 14 feet. 

June 25. Wednesday. — Having fixed upon to-mor- 
row for my departure from Paris, I have spent most of 
the day in making hasty calls. I called, first, upon 
Mr. S. G. Goodrich, the American Consul, by whom I 
was introduced to his wife and daughter. Called at the 
residence of the American Minister, but he was away, 

and did not see him. Called also and took leave of 
my kind friend, Mr. Vattemare, and went, for the last 

time, I suppose, to the Express Office of Livingston & 
Wells, to look at the Register of American names and 
the files of American Newspapers. 

During my stay in Paris, I have observed many things 
which were novel to me, and of which I had hoped to 
note some account in my journal, but have not, hither- 
to, found any time ; nor have I time now to call them to 
mind and write them out, But, as I expect to leave Paris 



52 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

to-morrow, I will here record a few general remarks. I 
have found things very different here from what I had 
been accustomed to, at home, but no more so than I had 
expected. Indeed, I have experienced much less annoy- 
ance and trouble from government surveillance and po- 
lice regulations, than was anticipated. Soon after I took 
lodgings at the Hotel des Etrangcrs, mine host sent to 
my room for my passport, which was returned in the 
course of half an hour, and that was the only inquiry, 
which has ever been made for it; and that inquiry was 
in consequence of a regulation, which imposes a consid- 
erable penalty on keepers of public houses, who do not 
furnish proof that the foreigners, who have taken lodg- 
ings with them, are in the possession of regular pass- 
ports. 

In Paris, and, indeed, in all parts of France, I think 
Americans, generally, are treated with more respect 
than the people of any other foreign country, and to this 
general friendly feeling towards Americans, mors than 
any thing else, I attribute the kind attentions I have re- 
ceived during my sojourn here. 

The mode of living and manner of eating here, differs 
very much from ours. With us, at our principal meals, 
a considerable variety of dishes, is usually brought upon 
the table, at the same time, but here, seldom more than 
one or two. With some exceptions, the dinner courses 
are nearly as follows : first a roil or piece of bread is 
placed by the side of each person's plate, then comes 
the soup. The dishes being removed, then is brought 
the Jish — then the mutton or lamb — then therm/ — then 
beef — then the fowls — then the potatoes — then the salad 
then the pudding — then the strawberries or other fruits 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 5S 

— then the cheese — and lastly, the coffee. The wine 
runs freely through all the stages. When tea or coffee 
is taken, morning or evening, each one has his own tea 
or coffee pot, from which he pours out and seasons, 
with sugar and cream, to his own liking. The bread I 
have usually found to be of good quality, but the loaves 
are often of singular forms. The common bread is mostly 
in rolls, about three feet long and four inches in diame- 
ter, resembling, in form, a huge war-club. It is com- 
mon to have one, or more, of these standing in thecorner 
of the room, with the lower end resting on the floor, 
while pieces are cut, as they are required, from the upper 
end. When piled upon a hand-cart and wheeled through 
the streets, a; is frequently done, they would be mis- 
taken at a little distance, for a load of round wood. The 
butter is usually brought upon the table, entirely fresh, 
and each person salts, what he eats, to his taste. Board 
and lodgings may be had at almost all prices, depend- 
ing upon kind, place and circumstances. I have had a 
comfortable room with good board and bed, at the Hotel 
des Etrangers ) for $1.50 per day. 

The conveyances to different parts of Paris are conve- 
nient, under good regulation, and the charges moderate. 
Omnibusses run through all the principal streets and to 
various public places, and the charge for any distance 
within the city, is only six sous. Besides these, great 
numbers of coaches and cabs are waiting at different 
stations, which may readily be had for any special ser- 
vice. These are paid by the hour, distance, or places 
of stopping. The authorized charge per hour, is thirty 
sous for the first, and twenty-five for each subsequent 
hour. The cabs are all numbered and the drivers arc 



54 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

under the strict surveillance of the police. On entering 
the cab, the driver gives you his number, and then, if 
you are any way maltreated by him, you have only to 
hand the number and state the case to a police officer, and 
the driver is called at once to give an account of himself. 

Among the interesting places in Paris, the Place de 
la Concorde is the most central and beautiful. It has 
Champs-Ely sees on the west, and the Tuillcrics on the 
east. Ths north is covered by two immense symmetri- 
cal buildings occupied by the government, and the south 
by the Seine, over which a handsome bridge leads to the 
palace of the National Assembly. The Place de la Con- 
corde measures 750 feet from north to south and 528 from 
east to west. It is surrounded by groups of statues and 
.sunken gardens, and is splendidly lighted by night. with 
gas. In the center stands the granite obelisk of Luxor, 
covered with hieroglyphics, on each side of which, at a 
little distance, are beautiful fountains, which are kept 
playing during the day and evening. The device of 
these fountains is somewhat fantastical, consisting of 
human figures, supporting above them, a large basin, 
and each holding a dolphin under his arm, from whose 
mouth a stream of water is ejected upward over the head 
of the statue into the basin ; over the rim of which, it 
flows down into the reservoir at the base. 

At the time of my visits to the Garden of Plants, I 
noted, in my journal, very little respecting the wonders 
of that vast and interesting establishment, intending to 
be more particular when I had become better acquaint- 
ed with it. But my indisposition has, in a great meas- 
ure frustrated my intention. The Garden of Plants is, 
I believe, under the control of the Minister of the Inte- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 55 



rior. It consists of six general departments, viz : 1. — A 
Botanical Garden, with spacious green-houses; 2. — Gal- 
leries, in which are arranged vast collections, belonging 
to the three kingdoms of Nature ; 3. — A Gallery of Com - 
parative Anatomy ; 4. — A Menagerie of living Animals; 
5. — A Library of Natural History ; 6. — An Amphithea- 
tre and Labratory, for Public Lectures. The Lectures, 
two or three being delivered daily, from April to the end 
of August, are all gratuitous. 

Among the multifarious employments of the people of 
Paris, there is one which has afforded me no small 
amusement. Very early each morning, the streets and 
side walks are all swept, and the dirt and rubbish gath- 
ered mto little piles along the gutters. This is no sooner 
done, than sundry persons, male and female, with bas- 
kets suspended upon their backs, and sticks in their 
hands having a croaked nail in the end, may be seen 
passing from heap to heap, and snatching various little 
articles with their hooked nail, and whirling them dex- 
terously over their heads into the basket. These are 
called Chiffonniers, or Rag-gatherers. They pick out 
and carry off, not only the rags, but the smallest scraps 
of paper and bits of bone. Large numbers are said to 
pursue this business for their living ; but scanty — very 
scanty, methinks, must be the pittance of those who rely 
upon it. 

June 26. Thursday. — Having adjusted matters with 
"mine host" I proceeded to the Rail-Way station, and 
at 9 this morning, took my final leave of Paris, and 
arrived at Havre at half past 2 this afternoon. Here I 
am to remain till half-past 10, and then leave in a Brit- 
ish steamer for Southampton. 



56 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARI?, 

As I passed up the Seine to Paris on the 13th of June, 
I observed that the farmers were just beginning to cut 
their hay, and to-day, as I came down, they seemed to 
be in the very midst of their haying. In my rapid flight 
through the country, I had little chance to observe the 
growing crops. Rye seemed to predominate for some 
distance below Paris, and from thence to Rouen I noticed 
some fine orchards of plums, cherries and pears, and 
between Rouen and Havre, a few good apple orchards. 
I have observed, to-day, several extensive fields devoted 
to the cultivation of mustard. It is just beginning to 
ripen, and there appears to be a very heavy growth of 
it upon the ground. 

I have spent my time, since my arrival, in wandering 
about this ancient city. Havre is a town of considerable 
size, and of great commercial importance, on account of 
being the chief sea-port of Paris. The docks and ac- 
commodations here, for shipping, are quite extensive, 
and are still being enlarged. They are separated from 
the river and bay by a long line of fortifications. The 
docks are of great, depth, inclosed by massive walls of 
hewn stone, which are very compactly filled behind 
with gravel and nodules of flint, from the chalk forma- 
tion. Much difficulty is, however, encountered in en- 
tering the docks, on account of the great and rapid riso 
and fall of the tide, which has a sweep of 22 feet, be- 
tween high and low water mark. Large vessels are, 
frequently, obliged to wait, in the bay, several hours, 
bsfore they can enter the docks, or come to land. Just 
within the docks, there is an extensive range of buildings, 
erected by government for soldier's barracks, but used, 
in part, I am told, for a prison. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 57 



The Franklin was lying in her dock, where I left her 
two weeks ago, with the stars and stripes floating grace- 
fully over her. I went on board, where I found one of 
the mates, the purser and the engineer, comfortably 
seated in the beautiful dining saloon, taking their dinner. 
I was cordially invited to partake with them, but was 
obliged to decline, on account of having just dined on 
shore. It reaUy seemed almost like getting home, to be 
ones more on board of an American skip. Capt. Wot- 
ton, I was informed, left Havre this morning, for Paris. 

In the lower and older parts of Havre, the streets are 
narrow, dirty and disagreeable, and all the buildings 
have the appearanse of great antiquity. But, in the 
newer and higher parts, and, particularly, upo:«i the 
rising grounds towards the north-west, which overlook 
the city, there are many large and elegant buildings, 
and delightful residences, surrounded by beautiful shade 
trees and gardens. I came on board the steamer a little 
after sunset, and now, having completed my few notes, 
I shall pack myself away in my berth, and await the 
hour of departure. 

June 27. Friday. — I was very fortunate, last night, 
in coming on board and in retiring early to my berth, 
fir I, thereby, secured an indifferent nap before the 
steamer started, and a good berth for the whole night, 
which less than half were able to do, on account of the 
gznallness of the boat, and the great number who crowd- 
ed on board. I was somewhat aroused by the noise and 
confusion occasioned by the preparations for departure, 
and in getting under way, and I have some faint recol- 
lection of seeing two stern looking men, inofficial habit, 
one holding a lantern, who shoved aside the screen in 



58 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

front of rny berth, and demanded my passport. I very 
submissively banded it to them, and, after looking at it 
a moment, they returned it to me and quietly retired, 
By my great day's work, yesterday, I had got exceed- 
ingly fatigued, and the fatigue, together with an almost 
incessant cough and stricture across the lungs, prevent- 
ed my getting any sound sleep during the night, and 
yet, I was so dozy and stupid, that I was hardly aware 
that the steamer was under way till morning ; but when 
I arose, about sunrise, I found that I had, not only taken 
my leave of France, but was, already, out of sight of 
land. 

During my stay of 14 days, I have seen only a very 
small portion of the country ; but that small portion is 
an important one, and shows very conspicuously in the 
annals of France, and of Europe. Paris is literally the 
nucleus — the heart — the city of France, and all the rest 
of France has been aptly designated as its suburbs. 
The beats and spasms of this heart, like that of the hu- 
man system, are felt in the utmost and minutest ex- 
tremities of the nation. 

Rouen and Havre — the lower valley of the Seine, 
that granary of ancient Normandy, — to the former 
greatness and importance of these, the pages of history 
bear ample testimony ; but these are now all over- 
shadowed by the Great Metropolis. About eight hun- 
dred years have now elapsed, since William, Duke of 
Normandy, passed over these waters, which we are now 
traversing, — landed in Sussex — fought the battle of 
Hastings — seated himself on the throne of Britain — and 
became William the Conqueror. What changes have 
since taken place ! what events have since transpired ! 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 59 

As we passed along, on our way to Southampton, we 
had a charming view, on our left, of the Isle of Wight 
— its high chalk cliffs and smooth grassy lawns — its 
gentle hills and vallies and its delightful groves — its 
neat cottages and splendid mansions; and on the right, 
of Gosport and Portsmouth, and a beautiful line of coast 
stretching off to the east. The two principal places 
seen on the Isle of Wight are Rye and Cowes. Between 
these, on elevated grounds, stands the Queen's new 
Palace, called the Osborne House. It commands a fine 
view of land and water scenery, and appeared to good 
advantage, as we passed it this morning, lighted up and 
burnished by the rising sun. 

It was about 8 o'clock in the morning, when we ar- 
rived at Southampton, where I first set foot on the soil 
of England. As I was to leave at 9, in the cars for 
London, I had my baggage, after being inspected, con- 
veyed directly to the Rail- Way station, while I pro- 
ceeded thither on foot. On my way I was beset by the 
greatest number, and most importuning gang of runners 
from public houses, that I have ever encountered. In 
walking from the dock to the station, I had no less 
than seven cards thrust into my hands, setting forth the 
superior advantages of as many hotels. After seeing 
my baggage safely deposited, I went into the nearest 
public house, whose card read 

"For Plain Breakfast, ... Is., 
For Dinner, 2s. 6d. &c." 

and called for a plain breakfast. I was informed that it 
was ready, and was conducted into the eating-room, 
where I found a table set with bread, butter, and some 



GO JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



joints of cold meat. The table appeared quite naked, 
to be sure, but as bread and butter and black tea usu- 
ally constitute my bill of fare. I made no words about 
it. but sat down, ordered a cup of tea and commenced 
eating. In the mean time, others came in and seated 
themselves at the table, to the number of near a dozen. 
Having eaten some bread and batter and a small slice 
of cold mutton, and drank two cups of black tea, I rose 
from the table, and handed out a shilling to pay my bill; 
but was told that a shilling only paid for a plain break- 
fast, and I had eaten some meat, and mast, therefore, 
pay Is. Sd. I was somewhat surprised at the demand, 
but, as it was the first meal I had eaten in England, 
and as 1 had no authorative means of determining the 
true meaning of a plain breakfast here. I handed over 
the additional eight pence, and took my leave. Nearly 
or quite all of my companions at the table, partook 
sparingly of the meat, but, whether they knew, at the 
time, that they were partaking of something superior to 
a plain breakfast, or learned it afterwards, when they 
came to pay their bills, I did not wait to ascertain. 

I had only a few moments to look about Southamp- 
ton, but in that time I observed that some improve- 
ments were being made, and that there was a very 
extensive dock in the course of construction. I left in 
the cars, at 9, and reached the London station, near 
Waterloo bridge, about 1 P. M., passing through a level, 
highly cultivated and charming country. The growing 
crops promise, I should judge, a good harvest, and the 
farmers are now generally, engaged in securing their 
hay. The fences are, mostly hedge, and the hedges, 
I think, generally hawthorn. The distance from South- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. SI 

amptoii to London is 80 miles by Rail- Way, and the 
fare, in second class cars, $3. The grade is very level, 
and no tunnels are required, in which respect, it differs 
from the Rail-Way between Havre and Paris. As in 
France, so do people here of high respectability, ride in 
second class cars ; but in England the second class cars, 
though very comfortable, are not cushioned. In France 
they are cushioned, but not so richly as those of the 
first class. Both in France and England, the cars are 
entered on the sides, and not at the ends, as in the 
United States, and the seats reach across them, like 
those of a coach. The cars generally carry 20 or 2*5 
persons each. 

On reaching the Waterloo station, in London, I pro- 
cured a cab, and proceeded directly to Morley's Hotel, 
Trafalgar square. I found that my friend, Henry Ste- 
vens, Jr., Esq , from Vermont, was still stopping here, 
but that, being on one of the juries for the award of 
prizes at the Great Exhibition, he was, at the time of 
my arrival, employed on that business at the Crystal 
Palace. He returned about 4 o'clock, and I was re- 
ceived by him very cordially, but was sorry to learn 
that no letters, directed to his care, had been received 
for me, from my friends in America. Learning that 
mails for the United States are made up and forwarded 
from London, every Saturday, I finished several letters, 
which I had commenced in Paris, and committed them 
to the Pest.* I find myself, this evening, very much 
fatigued, and quite unwell, with no appetite for food. 
The inflammation of my lungs and cough, which have 

* One of these, to the Editor of the Burlington Free Pre3S, was pub- 
lished in that paper on the 10th of July. 

6* 



62 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



afflicted me, since I took my severe cold in Paris, have 
been considerably aggravated by the heat and dust, on 
the way from Southampton to London, and, I fear that 
the smoke and dust of London are not doing very much 
to improve them. 

June 28. Saturday. — Committed, this morning, to 
her Majesty's penny post, those letters, which I had 
biought out with me, and which I did not expect to 
deliver, personally. At i 1 o'clock, went out to call upon 
the distinguished British Naturalist, to whom I had 
letters of introduction from my friends, Prof. Aagassiz 
and Dr. Storer of Boston. Not finding him at heme I 
left my letters, packages and address. In the after- 
noon I called, with like success, at the Museum of the 
Geological Survey, with letters and a package from 
Prof. Agassiz, for Prof. Forbes, and, at the British Mu- 
seum, the same for Mr. Gray. They were both away 
at the Crystal Palace at the time. 

I have seen, yet, only a very little part of London — 
scarcely any thing beyond what is immediately around 
Trafalgar Square, upon which delightful place, I am 
now looking down from the windows of Morley's Ho- 
tel. This square measures, I should judge, about 25 
rods by 15, and was formed during the reign of 
George IV, by clearing away an irregular cluster of old 
buildings, and narrow streets, and alleys. It is now 
surrounded by good buildings, Morley's Hotel occupy- 
ing the east side, the National Gallery of Painting and 
Sculpture the north, the College of Physicians and the 
Union Club House the west, and the Northumber- 
land House the south. At the northeast corner of the 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 63 

square, stands the handsome church of St. Martin' 
in-t he- Fields. The whole square is paved with large 
slabs of Portland stone, and contains two fountains, 
which play during the day and evening, each being 
surrounded by a large basin, or reservoir. The north- 
ern part of the square is considerably elevated above 
the southern part, and the descent, from the former to 
the latter, is by stone steps. On the higher part, tow- 
ards the northeastern corner, stands a fine equestrian 
statue of George IV, and it is said that there is to be 
a corresponding statue towards the northwestern corn- 
er. Nearly midway in the south, or lower side of the 
square, stands 

"A monumental pile, 
Designed for Nelson of the Nile! 
Of Trafalgar and Vincent's heights — 
For Nelson of the hundred fights." 

This column, surmounted by a statue of Nelson, sur- 
passes any other in London. Its total height is 176 
feet, of which, the statue of Nelson makes 18 feet. 
The column is of granite, and fluted. Upon the four 
sides of the square pedestal, are placed, in bronze 
baso-relicvo, representations of Nelson's four great bat- 
tles, viz: St. Vincent, Copenhagen, Nile and Trafalgar. 
On the south side are the memorable words of Nelson — 
England expects every man to do his duty. 

June 29. Sunday. — Yesterday, as I was in front 
of Morley's, in the midst of the mingled and incessant 
noise and jar, and roar of the city, sweet notes of music 
struck clearly upon my ear, as if proceeding from a 
hand organ, or some other musical instrument, very 
near me. I looked around me, but could not discover 



64 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

whence it came, and it was some little time before the 
fact was revealed to me. that these sweet tones pro- 
ceeded from the bells in the tower of St. Martin's-in- 
the-Pield. This church has an excellent chime of 12 
bells, and their peal was continued, yesterday, for an 
hour, without intermission. To day, it commenced 
at 10 A. M. and continued till 11, the time of com- 
mencing morning service. I learn from Leigh's Pic- 
ture of London, that Nell Gwynne, who was buried 
in the yard of this church, left a legacy, for the ex- 
press purpose of paying for th<? ringing of its bells. 

This church, being but a few steps from Morlcy's, 
where I am stopping, I concluded to attend its servic- 
es, and, at 11 A. M. proceeded thither. I made my 
way through the crowd into the broad aisle, but found 
it, and all the pews, completely filled. I remained 
standing in the dense crowd, till the services were 
abcut half ever, and then, wearied with standing, and 
almost suffocated, I made my way out, and returned 
to my rccm. In the afternoon I went there again 
and found no difficulty in getting a good scat, the 
house being not more than half filled. At this time I 
was able to join, understanding^, in the services of the 
church, which I could not do in the morning. The 
sermon was not splendid, but good. This church was 
erected just 125 years ago, and is regarded as one of 
the best parish churches in the Metropolis. It is built 
of stone, 140 feet long, 60 wide, and, the body of the 
church, 45 feet high. Its steeple is very lofty and im- 
posing, and contains a good clock and, as already 
mentioned, a chime of 12 belbs. It has a handsome 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 65 



portico of eight Corinthian columns, and is approach- 
ed by a long flight of stepSi The interior is very beau- 
tiful, and the organ, which was presented by George 
III, is regarded as very excellent. 

After church service I took a long walk with my 
friend, Stevens. We passed through St. James' Park, 
Green Par!: and Hyde Park, making a circuit entirely 
round the ( Crystal Palace; so I have had an outside view 
of the world-famed structure, but have uot yet seen 
the interior. We found all the parks alive with swarms 
of men, women and children, gossiping and promen- 
ading in the open air. Being fatigued by our long 
walk, we returned, in an omnibus, toTafalgar Square; 
and, being obliged to take an outside seat, and the ev- 
ening air being chilly, I fear I may have added to my 
cold, as my lungs seem much inflamed and my cough 
almost incessant. 

Junk 30. Monday. — Went this morning, to the Mu- 
seum of the College of Surgeons, at Linccln's-Inn- 
Fields, with my letters aud package for Prof. Owen, 
and, not finding him at his rooms, I left them, togeth- 
er with my card, and then spent some time in looking 
at the articles in this interesting museum of Compara- 
tive Anatomy. On my return from the museum, I 
called upon I.Ir. Yarrell, from whom I had received a 
note, but too late for me to accept the invitation it con- 
veyed to me, to breakfast with him this morning. I, 
this time, found him at home, and he invited me up to 
his rooms, to look at his collection of birds and fishes. 
It is not extensive, but embraces a large proportion of 
the British species, and the specimens are very neatly 



66 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

and prettily prepared. Went, just at night, and deliv- 
ered letters to Mr. Markham, on Upper Gower Street, 
Mr. Atkinson, on Gordon Square and Miss Whitby, on 
Queen, s Square. 

July 1. Tuesday. — Called at No. 11, Harley Street, 
with my letters and package for Sir Charles Lyell, and, 
being informed that he was away, left them, and was 
passing out into the street, when the servant called to 
me that he had arrived, and requested me to walk into 
the house again. I returned, where I met Sir Charles, 
who informed me that he was going down immediately 
to Ipswich, to the meeting of the British Association, 
and, at the close of that meeting, it was his intention, to 
go over to the continent on a geological excursion. 
Fearing that my presence might incommode him. under 
these circumstances, I remained but a few moments, 
and then took my leave, expecting to see him again at 
Ipswich, during the meeting of the Association. In the 
afternoon I visited the House of Lords, in the New Par- 
liament House, in which the Court of Appeals was 
then in session. It is a most splendid room, the ceiling 
being gorgeously gilded, and the seats cushioned with 
the richest crimson velvet. There was a very little 
rain this morning, but the weather, during the day, has 
been hotter and more oppressive than I have felt it any 
time since I arrived in Europe. My cough continues 
very severe. 

July 2. Wednesday. — Coughed badly this morning, 
and raised some blood from my lungs, as I have done 
several times before, since I took my severe cold in 
Paris. At 10 o'clock I entered, for the first time, the 
Crystal Palace. My expectations had been raised pret- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 67 



ty high, with regard to this building, and its contents, 
but the reality, I think, fully equals them. There is 
not, however, within, that sense of greatness, or vast- 
ness, which one is le^d to expect from seeing it on the 
outside, and knowing its measurements. But this is, 
probably, owing to the many partitions, and divisions, 
and to the great number, and magnitude of the articles, 
which occupy the interior. I first took a hasty look 
through the department occupied by the articles from 
the United States, which is at the east end of the 
building, and then passed along one side of the nave 
to the west end, and returned on the other side. I 
found the United States' Department, as had been rep- 
resented, appearing rather vacant, and yet I saw many 
good things there. The nave and transept contain 
several beautiful fountains, which are kept constantly 
playing, and there are, arranged throughout the whole 
extent of both, a succession of fine statues and other 
choice specimens of sculpture. Among these, connect- 
ed with the American division, I noticed, with satisfac- 
tion, Powers' Greek Slave and Sanderson's Wounded 
Indian. In these fine specimens of art, Yermont may 
claim some interest, since the sculptor of the former, 
and the marble of the latter, are both natives of our 
Green Mountain State. Who ever thought, when they 
saw Hiram Powers, playing his boyish gambols on the 
banks of the Ottaquechee. at Woodstock-Green, in 
Windsor County, that in him was that creative power, 
which would, one day, call forth from the shapeless 
marble, that perfection and grace of form, attitude and 
expression, which are exhibited in his Greek Slave and 
other works ? Certainly, I did not. My examination 



C3 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

of the articles on exhibition, have been so hasty and 
limited, that I shall not attempt to give particulars at 
present. 

To-day, occurred the last Exhibition, for the season, 
ol Flowers, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, in Re- 
gent's Park. This morning, I received a note from my 
kind friend, George Atkinson, Esq, accompanied by a 
Ticket for the Exhibition, from Mrs. Atkinson, who 
insisted upon my attending, as it would give me a bet- 
ter opportunity to see the manners, dress and equipage 
of the higher ranks and nobility, than I might other- 
wise expect to have. I reached the Gardens about 4 
P. M,, where I spent something more than an hour, as 
pleasantly as was possible, in the existing state of my 
health. The display of rare plants and gay flowers, 
was exceedingly great — equalled only by the beauty, 
and dress, and equipage of the wealth and aristocracy 
of London, here assembled to witness it. The number 
of persons at the Gardens was estimated at 10,000, and 
the number of carriages at 1,500; and these, nearly all, 
belonged to the upper lltoitsands. The display of richly 
caparisoned horses, of gilded and glittering carriages, 
and of liveried coachmen and waiters, far exceeded 
any thing I had before seen. The flowers exhibited, 
were not only very numerous and varied in kind, but 
appeared remarkably fresh, large and perfect. There 
was an excellent band of music in attendance, which 
added much to the animation and pleasure of the exhi- 
bition. On my return to Morley's, I found that Prof. 
Forbes had called and left his card for me; and found, 
too, a note from my Vermont friend, W. F. Shattuck, 
Esq., who has been spending some time in London. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. M 

July 3. Thursday. — Wrote and sent off letters in the 
morning, and at 12 o'clock made my first call on the 
American Minister, the Hon. Abbott Lawrence, that be- 
ing the hour at which he receives company. He received 
me very cordially, and offered to furnish me with tickets 
to the Royal Observatory, and some other places, if I 
wished to visit them. On taking my leave, he request- 
ed me to call again, on my return from Ipswich, to 
which place, I had told him, it was my design to pro- 
ceed this afternoon, in order to attend, at that place, the 
meeting of the British Association for the Advancement 
of Science. 

Having returned* to Morley's, I settled my bill, 
amounting to about £4 for six days, and, with my trav- 
elling-bag, containing a few articles, proceeded to the 
station of the North- Eastern Rail-Way, at Shoreditcb, 
which I reached in season for the 5 o'clock train, and 
proceeded by it to Ipswich, 68 miles, where I arrived 
between sunset and dark. Understanding that the pub- 
lic houses were much crowded, on account of the meet- 
ing of the Association, and the visit of Prince Albert to 
Ipswich, I took tea and lodging for the night, at a pri- 
vate boarding house, and bespoke a breakfast in the 
morning. 

July 4. Friday. I arose this morning, quite early, 
and finding none of the people of the house up, I walked 
out to look at the city, and, after passing through a 
number of streets, returned and obtained my breakfast 
about 8 o'clock. On inquiring the terms upon which I 
could have board and lodging during my stay in Ips- 
wich, I was told that the charge would be 5s. a night 

for room and bed. and from Is. to 35. a meal, according 
7 -6 



m JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



to what I had. Regarding these charges as somewhat 
extravagant, I paid for my two meals and lodging, and 
resolved to make inquiries elsewhere. 

While at London, my friend, Mr. Yarrell, had given 
me a letter to George Ransome, Esq., the local Secretary 
of the Association at Ipswich, and I, therefore, proceeded 
immediately to his residence, where I was introduced to 
several members of the Association, and generously fur- 
nished with a ticket, giving me free admission to all the 
meetings. Before proceeding to the reception ropm, 
however, I called upon Prof. Forbes, at his boarding 
place, by whom I was introduced to Prof. Sedgwick, 
Prof. Phillips, Prof. Airy, and some others. 

The Association, for the reading of papers and oral 
discussions, is divided into six or seven sections. There 
is a kind of informal general meeting at the reception 
room in the morning, and at 11 o'clock the sections pro- 
ceed to their respective rooms in different parts of the 
city, where they usually continue in session till 4 P. M. 
Under these circumstances, one almost covets ubiquity, 
to that extent, at least, which would enable him to be 
present in more than one section at the same time ; but, 
as I could not hope this, I concluded, from what appear- 
ed on the programme, that I should be most interested 
and benefitted by the proceedings of the Natural History 
Section, D, and I attended it accordingly. 

The papers read, and the subjects discussed in this 
section were generally interesting, but the most impor- 
portant paper was that of Prof. Forbes, on the geograph- 
ical distribution of molluscs. Just before the reading of 
this paper, there was a loud clapping at the door, and, 
immediately afterwards, eight or ten gentlemen entered 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. TO 

the hall, and were seated on the right of the chairman. 
One of these was Prince Albert. After the reading of 
the paper, they arose and retired. The Prince came 
down to Ipswich, yesterday, in the morning train. As 
I came down in the afternoon, flags were flying at all 
the stations, and every body was praising Prince Albert. 
Over the principal streets in Ipswich, triumphal arches, 
formed of trees and leafy boughs and flowers, had been 
erected, and splendid flags, bearing mottos and devices, 
complimentary to the Prince and the Queen, were wav- 
ing over them. 

After the adjournment of the Section, I went with the 
multitude, to see the Prince use the trowel, in laying the 
corner-stone of a large building, which is about being 
erected for the accommodation of the public Grammar 
School of Ipswich. The number of spectators present, 
was judged to be seven or eight thousand. After a few 
ceremonies and short addresses, a prayer was offered up 
by the Rector and Head-Master of the School, and then 
the Prince took the trowel, spread the mortar, and, the 
stone being let down upon it, he very gracefully rapped 
it down with the handle of the trowel, adjusted the mor- 
tar around the edges, and that closed the ceremony. 

The reception committee having kindly provided me 
lodgings, at the house of the Rev. Mr. Greenfield, 2d 
Master of the Grammar School, I proceeded thither, after 
the above ceremonies, and found my accommodations 
very comfortable, and the family, consisting only of Mr. 
G. and his wife, a newly married couple, to be very 
agreeable. At 8 P. M., I went to the Corn Exchange, 
to hear a public lecture, upon the line of distinction be- 
tween animals and plants, by Prof. Owen; and a most 



71 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

interesting lecture it was. He pointed out, with admi- 
rable clearness, the lines of demarkation, which h?.ve 
heretofore been proposed, and showed that while most 
of them were true, to a very considerable extent, no one 
of them was universally true. Lumens' distinction 
was that, — Minerals grow ; Plants grow and live ; Ani- 
mals grow, live, feel and move. This is generally true ; 
and yet some animals are rooted as firmly as plants, 
and some marine plants have the power of locomotion, 
and other plants give as much evidence of feeling as 
many animals. Again — Plants exhale oxygen and in- 
hale carbonic acid ; while animals inhale oxygen, and 
exhale carbonic acid ; generally true, but not universally 
so. Again — Plants are composed of carbon and hydro- 
gen — two elements; animals of carbon, hydrogen, oxy- 
gen and nitrogen — four elements ; true also, with regard 
to most plants and animals, but not to all. Once more 
— Plants have no stomachs, but animals havs stomachs, 
hi which their food is digested and prepared for their 
nourishment ; this, again, is generally true, still, there 
are exceptions. 

But I will not here dwell upon the subject. The lec- 
ture was, on the whole, a very interesting and instruct- 
ive one, and his illustrations presented many new views 
to my mind. By tracing various plants and animals 
through their different stages of development, from the 
incipient embryo, up to the perfect individual, he illus- 
trated the various " interlock ings " of the lower orders of 
the two kingdoms, and thus showed the extreme diffi- 
culty of drawing any definite general line of demarka- 
tion between them. The frog, the aphis and the medusa. 
were examples ©f animals, whose developments were 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 



traced. In case of the aphis, and medusa, and some 
others, he showed that they produced animals unlike 
themselves, and that animals so produced, produced an- 
imals unlike themselves, and so on, through a consider 
able circuit, till at length the original form was repro- 
duced. This process, he proposes to call Mctagejiesis, 
in distinction from Metamorphosis, in which, change of 
form arises chiefly from casting off exterior coverings. 

As the Association has determined to spend to-morrow 
in scientific excursions, in different directions, I concluded 
to join the party, which is to proceed down the Orwell 
and along the sea-coast, for the purpose of looking at the 
Red and Coralline Crag, and London Clay formations, 
and, for that purpose, I have taken a ticket, for which I 
paid as. 

July 5. Saturday. — Having taken a ticket for the 
excursion down the Orwell, as mentioned yesterday, I 
went down to the steam-boat landing soon after break- 

st, and at 9 A. M., our party, consisting of about 150, 
were closely packed on the deck of the little steamer, 
the River Queen, and the paddles were put in motion. 
This steamer is a small narrow boat, of, perhaps, half 
the tonnage of the old Winooski, on Lake Champlain. 
We were, consequently, all very near neighbors. The 
tide was out, and the water confined to the channel 
of the river, which is very narrow and very crooked, 
and hence, its navigation must require much care and 
experience, when the tide is in and the banks concealed, 
on account of the difficulty of keeping the channel. The 
river now appears no wider than our Winooski, below 
the lower falls. When the tide is in, it is, generally, 
half a mile, or more, wide. More than half the passen- 



(* 



It JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

gers were obliged to stand, there being no places for 
them to sit down, and they stood so thick that it was 
almost impossible to get from one part of the deck to an- 
other. As we proceeded down the Orwell, I saw thst 
>Sun-fishes, or Medusa, were very numerous and very 
beautiful. Sometimes, three or four could be seen moving 
gracefully through the water, by their contractions and 
expansions. Herons, ducks, and various kinds of water- 
fowls, were quite numerous along the flats, which were 
left bare by the ebbing of the tide, which has here a 
sweep of rise and fall, as I am told, of sixteen feet. On 
our way down the river, Prof. Phillips mounted the 
rostrum, (that is, the bulkhead over the gang-way,) and 
gave us a very interesting lecture, on the geological 
character of the localities we were about visiting, and to 
me it was yery opportune, as it enabled me to learn, and 
enjoy, much more of the things I was about to see, than 
I otherwise could have done. After dwelling for some 
time upon the general Geology of this part of England, 
and giving some account of the three principal deposits, 
lying above the chalk formation, viz : the London clay, 
the Coralline crag and the Red crag, he said he would 
suspend his remarks, till he came in sight of the crag 
and clay, along the coast. At Harwich, which is an 
ancient town of considerable size, lying at the mouth of 
the Orwell, twelvo miles from Ipswich, several of the 
passsngers landed, for the purpose of accepting an invi- 
tation, which had been extended to the members ©f the 
Association, from that neighborhood. 

Leaving Harwich, we proceeded out to sea, and along 
the coast, toward the north. The shore gradually be- 
came more elevated as we advanced, and at Felixstow, 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 74 

consisted of a narrow gravelly beach, back of which 
the clay and crag rose precipitously, 30 or 40 feet. There 
having been some deep cutting made recently, in this 
neighborhood, some 30, or 35, of the party landed for the 
purpose of examining the geological structure more mi- 
nutely. I felt quite desirous of being one of the num- 
ber, but, as it would be necessary to walk some four or 
five miles, or more, in order to be taken on board, on 
the return of the boat, and, as I felt too unwell to think 
it prudent to undertake it, I continued on board. The 
crag, as it showed itself in the bank, along the shore, 
appeared, generally, about 12 or 15 feet thick, and the 
London clay, some part of the way, showed an equal 
thickness below. Between Felixstow and Bawdscy- 
Ferry, at the mouth of the Debcn, are the remains, 
of a Roman burial ground and some old Roman works 
which have been exposed by the inroads of the ocean. 
The ocean, all along this coast, is wearing it away; and 
it is this action of the ocean, which causes the abrupt- 
ness of the shore, and exposes the edges of th? crag and 
clay formations. The materials of the wear, are all 
drifted southward, and are found to be rapidly accumu- 
lating, in several places. Quite extensive tracts have 
been worn away, along this coast, within the historic 
period, and places, which were formerly accessable with 
large ships, can now be approached only by light craft 
on account of the shallowness of the water. 

At Bawdsey-Ferry, some more of our party went on 
shore, to remain till our return, but a majority still re- 
ma ; ned on board, and proceeded up the river to Rams- 
holt, where the boat was moored. After partaking of 
the excellent refreshments, which had been provided for 



75 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

the occasion, the whole party went on shore, and spent 
about an hour in clambering among the Crag-cliffs, 
examining the arrangement of the different deposits, and 
collecting specimens. The specimens found in the crag, 
are very interesting, consisting of a great variety of 
shells of molluscs, fragments of the bones of whales and 
land quadrupeds, the teeth of sharks, echinoderms and 
corals of different kinds. There are, also, layers of ma- 
terials, in some places quite abundant, which consist of 
rounded, cylindrical, ovoid masses, varying from one to 
five or six inches in length, and from half an inch to 
two inches in diameter. These little masses are found, 
on analysis to consist of from 50 to 75 per cent, of phos- 
phate of lime; and, the phosphate of lime being a great 
fertilizer of soils, these are sought after with great avidity, 
to be applied to lands, as a manure ; and I was told that, 
not less than a thousand tons are collected, annually, in 
this neighborhood. These little masses have acquired 
the name of Coprolites, and are regarded as a kind of 
native Guano; but the name of Coprolite, as a general 
name for them, is thought, by many naturalists, to be 
here misapplied. Some few of the masses have the sjiiral 
structure, which is characteristic of the Coprolite, and 
may be such, but, for myself, I must say that, I think 
the proportion of true Coprolites among them, is quite 
small. I am disposed to regard them simply as concre- 
tions, which have been aggregated, in the same manner, 
as we see them formed in the clay-beds along the shores 
of Lake Champlain. That the phosphate of lime, which 
forms the principal part of these concretions, has been 
derived from the disintegration of animal bones, is very 
probable : but that all these rounded masses, or even a 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 76 

large part of them, have passed through the stomachs, 
and received their form in the intestines of animated 
beings, is, certainly, not generally indicated in their 
structure. Indeed, the arrangement of their materials, 
indicates, in many cases, a very different origin. I 
broke and examined the structure of a great number of 
them, and, in very many cases, I found these cylindri- 
cal, ovoid masses, to be composed of concentric layers, 
formed around a capillary cavity, extending in the di- 
rection of the longest diameter of the mass, precisely in 
the same manner, as we see them arranged in the con- 
cretions of our own brown clay. I mentioned my view 
of their concretionary character, to Prof. Phillips, and 
found that he was inclined to the same opinion. 

On our way back from Ramsholt, we had several 
very interesting lectures, in relation to the objects 
which we had seen, and which lie along the the line 
of our excursion. The chief speakers were, Profes- 
sors Phillips, Forbes, Sedgwick and Owen. Prof. 
Phillips is the most fluent speaker of the four, but 
they all spoke well, and to the purpose. Though 
speaking, for the most part, of realities and facts, they 
did not fail, occasionally, to give zest to their speeches, 
by the intermingling of a little humor and anecdote, 
and occasionally to draw a fancy sketch, which would 
produce a universal burst of applause. Prof. Sedg- 
wick drew one of these, which I would like to have 
been phonographer enough to have taken down in 
short hand. It was in relation to the origin and char- 
acter of the green sand, London clay, and crag forma- 
tions ; but I shall make no attempt to repeat it. I 
will, however, say this much; — from the character of 



7 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



the fossil bones, and other remains, he inferred that, 
at one period, turtles were exceedingly abundant ; and 
that, if turtle abounded, there must be large cities, 
in which aldermen abounded, to eat them. He also 
attributed the color of the green sand formation, to 
the green coloring matter of the green fat of the tur- 
tles ; and he might have, also, inferred that, the so- 
called caprolites, were formed from the phosphate of 
lime, derived from the bones and shells of the turtles. 
Prof. Owen stated, that one of the shells of Molluscs, 
found in the red crag, had given name to a whole 
race of men — the Hottentots, of South Africa, Hot- 
tentot being the Dutch name of a shell, and signify- 
ing that it is left-handed. But, whether the Hotten- 
tots are generally left-handed, or not, he did not inform 
us. He, however, said that, while the fossil shells of 
this species were, generally, heterostroph, their de- 
scendants had somehow or other righted, or reversed 
themselves, and were now, nearly all, right-handed. 
He further stated, that from the fossil bones and teeth, 
obtained from the crag, he had been able to make out 
seventeen distinct species of quadrupeds. Among 
these, were a rhinoceros and several kinds of deer. 
Shark's teeth abound in the crag, some of which, 
judging from the proportion which the teeth of the 
living species of sharks bear to the animals, must have 
been about 60 feet in length. Prof. Forbes, also, made 
some very interesting remarks, respecting the crag and 
clay formations. 

Although the ships employed about Harwich are 
generally small, their number must be very great. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 78 

While on the ocean, in the neighborhood of Harwich, 
I counted 97 vessels, of various kinds, all of which 
were in sight at the same time. A large part of the 
shipping, I was told, is employed in raising from the 
bottom of the shallow sea a deposit, which, when car- 
ried away and properly prepared, is used for cement, 
or water lime. We arrived at Ipswich, about 6 P. M., 
after a day, in which I have learned very much of 
things concerning which, I knew very little before — 
a day in which I have had nothing to mar my enjoy- 
ment, but the want of good health. My cough has 
been exceedingly troublesome, and I have suffered 
considerable from pain in my side and chest ; and the 
occasional coughing up of a little blood, has not serv- 
ed to stimulate me to very great exertion, in climbing 
the crag banks, nor has it served to give much buoy- 
ancy to my spirits ; still, I have enjoyed much, and 
learned some things, although I have, at the same 
time, suffered. Joy and pain, so far as concerned my- 
self, have been very closely associated, during the 
day. Neither of them has, at any time, been very 
far off. 

July 6. Swiday. — Attended Divine service, fore- 
noon and afternoon, at the nearest parish church, and 
heard two excellent sermons from two different cler- 
gymen : but I have not learned the name of the church, 
or of either of the preachers. The forenoon's ser- 
mon was on Pilate's interrogative, " What is truth?" 
and that in the afternoon, on the 11th verse of the 
3d chapter of the 2d Epistle of Peter — " Seeing that 
all these things shall be dissolved," &c. Both the 



79 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

discourses were very well written, and the emphasis 
and intonations of the speakers were good ; but there 
was no gesticulation, excepting a nod of the head. 
Neither of them raised his hand from the cushion, 
during the discourse. Both the preachers made very 
particular reference to the meeting of the British As- 
sociation, now in session here ; and both discoursed 
very properly upon the relation and correspondence of 
the book of nature with the book of revelation — of 
the harmony of religion with true science. 

July 7. Monday. — This morning, after breakfast, 
I proceeded to the reception-room, where I obtained 
a programme of the proceedings for the day ; and, 
judging from the titles of the papers to be read, that 
1 should derive most benefit from attendance in the 
geological section, I proceeded to their room. Papers 
were read before this section, by Messrs. Owen, Bow- 
erbank, Forbes, Lyell and Logan. Mr. Bowerbank's 
related to the fossils of the London clay and the crag> 
and he exhibited shark's teeth from those formations, 
and from existing species, and, also, drawings, for the 
purpose of comparison. He stated, that the largest 
living species was found in the East Indies, and that 
it sometimes obtained the enormous length of 37 feet. 
He exhibited some of the teeth of this large shark, 
with a drawing of its head and jaws, and also some 
of the fossil teeth found in the crag, with an ideal 
outline of a corresponding head, and showed that, if 
we may judge of the size of the ancient shark, from 
the size of its teeth, as compared with the living spe- 
cies, we must conclude that it was about 65 feet long. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 81 

The name, given to this fossil species, is Carcaris 
megaladon. We can conceive, that it wouJd hardly 
be necessary for such a shark, to make two bites in 
devouring a man. The papers of Prof. Forbes and 
Sir Charles Lycll, both related to the fossils of the 
crag. Mr. Logan's paper related to the geology of 
Canada, and particularly to the copper-heaving rocks 
of Lake Huron. He exhibited before the section, a 
slab of sandstone, on which the foot-prints of a rep- 
tile, probably a tortoise, were distinctly impressed, 
and, also, a cast of another slab, some 7 or 8 feet long, 
on which similar tracks were shown, throughout its 
whole length. From its position, in reference to the 
well-known rocks in the neighborhood, Mr. Logan 
regards this sandstone, in which the tracks are found, 
as the Pottsdam sandstone of the New York geolo- 
gists, which is at the bottom of the Silurian series, or 
the oldest known fossiliferous rock. If this be so, it 
proves that vertebrated animals existed at the very 
earliest period, in which we find any proof of the ex- 
istence of either animal or vegetable life. In the 
evening, Prof. Airy, the Astronomer Royal, gave, at 
the Corn Exchange, a very interesting lecture upon 
the total eclipse of the sun, which is to occur on the 
28th inst. He illustrated the subject of solar eclipses 
very fully, by apparatus and diagrams, and gave a par- 
ticular account of some interesting phenomena, ex- 
hibited to different observers, of the eclipse of 1842. 
His lecture occupied 1J hour. 

July 8. Tuesday. — After breakfast, went to the 
8 



82 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



reception-room, and not finding on the programme 
any papers announced in which I felt very deeply in- 
terested, and learning that this was the last day of the 
session of the Association, I concluded to return to 
London. I accordingly took the train, which left 
Ipswich at half-past 9 A. M., and arrived in London 
about 1 P. M. The country between Ipswich and 
London is very delightful, being slightly undulating, 
and well cultivated. The soil, I should think, was 
not naturally very strong, or rich : it appears, how- 
ever, to be made, by artificial means, cpiite productive. 
The subsoil seems, in most places, to consist of flint 
pebbles. 

The city of Ipswich has quite an ancient appear- 
ance, and contains a considerable number of old 
churches. Excepting at the corners, which are of 
brick, or hammered stone, these churches are. for the 
most part, built of nodules of flint, which have been 
derived from the chalk formation, and which give the 
buildings a very singular appearance. The nodules 
arc laid in mortar, which is almost as hard f<s stone. 
The outsides of the walls are generally composed of 
halves of spherical nodules, which have been broken 
in the middle into two parts. The flat surface of the 
section is placed outward, forming the surface of the 
wall of the building ; and, as these flints are of all 
shades, from perfect black to white, the exterior ©f 
the churches appear to be covered with circles of dif- 
ferent colors, and generally about three or four inches 
in diameter. In some cases, regard is had to the ar- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 83 



rangement of the different shades of color ; but, gen- 
erally, they are placed promiscuously, without any 
regard to order. Ipswich appears to be a place of con- 
siderable business, but the streets here are very still 
and quiet compared with London. There is consid- 
erable shipping on the Orwell, but the craft is mostly 
small. There is not sufficient depth of water for 
large vessels, excepting at high tide, and then only 
along a narrow channel. There are very few elegant 
buildings in Ipswich, but the city has a population 
of about 35,000. 

On my arrival in London, I was very much grati- 
fied in finding letters from my wife and children, da- 
ted about three weeks after my departure from Bur- 
lington ; but I was sorry to learn that, like myself, 
my dear wife was suffering from an inflamation of the 
lungs, and hope that, ere this, she has recovered from 
it. In the course of the afternoon, I called upon Mr. 
Markham, to whom I had brought letters, from Mr. 
Whitby, of Burlington; and he aided me in procuring 
lodgings, where I now am, and where, I think, I shall 
get along quite as comfortably, and at much less ex- 
pense, than at any of the large hotels. And, besides 
the saving of expense, which with me is not a trifling 
consideration, I expect to derive several advantages 
from my present location. I shall be where the 
streets are broad and clean, and, comparatively, out of 
the noise, and smoke, and dust ■ which last, I think of 
considerable importance, in the present condition of 
my lungs. And, besides, I shall be as near the Crys- 



84 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



tal Palace, as I was at Moiley's ; not more than half 
so far from the Zoological Gardens, and in the imme- 
diate vicinity of the British Museum. My number 
is 23, Euston Place. 

July 9. Wednesday. — My new lodgings, though not 
furnished in the most elegant or sumptuous manner, I 
find to be quiet and comfortable, and, as to other things, 
it matters little, as I can hardly expect either the Queen, 
or Prince Albert, will call upon me here. This morning, 
took over the bones of my fossil whale, to the Museum 
of Practical Geology, and, with Prof. Forbes, compared 
them with the vertebrae of a cetacean, obtained by Mr. 
Logan, from the Laurentian clay, at Montreal. There 
can be little doubt that his and mine belong to the same 
species. His fossils consist only of vertebras, and, be- 
tween them, and the corresponding vertebrae in my 
specimen, no important difference could be discovered. 
I then, by adrice of Prof. Forbes, took the fossils over 
to the Museum of the College of Surgeons, at Lincoln's 
Inn-Fields, in order to submit them to Prof. Owen ; but, 
as Mr. O. was out, I left the bones, and intend calling 
again, to-morrow. From this interesting Museum of 
Comparative Anatomy, after spending some little tims 
in looking about, I went to the National Gallery of 
Painting and Sculpture, on Trafalgar Square. I was 
much impressed by some of the pieces of RafTaelle, 
Guido and Rubens. The works of these three artists 
are generally excellent, but they are quite unlike. Ru- 
bens' pieces are distinguished for their bright colors, and 
particularly for the use of red, which might lead one to 
suppose that the name, Rubens, was derived from that 
circumstance. The picture, which produced the deep- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 85 

est impression on me, was Raffaelle's " Murder of the 
Innocents." It seemed as if the whole scene was passing 
before my eyes — as if I could see the agonizing struggles, 
and hear the shrieks of the despairing mothers, as they 
clung, with desperate energy, to their babes — as if I 
could see the convulsions and distortions, and hear the 
screams of the frightened and suffering and bleeding 
children, as the fierce and cruel executioners of Herod 
were tearing the little innocents from the arms of their 
mothers, and murdering them before their eyes. There 
seems to be reality and truth in the whole scene, and, in 
spite of me, it drew tears from my eyes. There are por- 
tions of a picture, by Rubens, called " Peace and War," 
which are exceedingly life-like and touching. Among 
the Statuary arid modern Paintings, there are many 
of great skill and excellence. But I profess to be no 
connoiseur in the fine arts, and shall not attempt to par- 
ticularize beauties or defects. 

This evening, the City Corporation give a grand ball 
to the Queen. Only the nobility and most distinguish- 
ed personages, are invited, and yet, my friend Stevens 
had an invitation, and is there. He associates, here, 
with the best classes and highest ranks of society. He 
probably received his invitation, in this case, in conse- 
quence of being one of the Jurors, for awarding prizes 
and medals, at the Great Exhibition. The ball takes 
place at Guildhall, which is in, what is called, the city, 
in distinction from the town or metropolis ; and as the 
Queen resides in Buckingham Palace, in St. James' 
Park, Trafalgar Square is between the two, and being 
there a little after 8 o'clock, and, observing the streets 

to be densely lined with spectators, on both sides, 

8* 



86 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

watching the opportunity to see the Queen pass, I min- 
gled with them, thinking I might be allowed the privi- 
lege of a est, which may look upon a King. After 
waiting till nearly 9, the retinue passed along, in the 
midst of which was a carriage more splendidly gilded 
than the rest, carrying the Queen and royal consort. I 
saw just enough to enable me to say, that I have seen 
Her Majesty, and that is all. On account of the dark- 
ness and obscurity in which she was involved, in her 
carriage, at this time in the evening, I could obtain no 
better knowledge of her countenance, or features, than 
I should obtain of a Turkish beauty, whom I should 
meet in the streets of Constantinople, and who did 
raise her veil. But I saAV as much as thousands of 
others did, who went home, exulting that they had 
seen the Queen. The card which Mr. Stevens received, 
was a very splendid thing ; and it was accompanied by 
full directions in regard to the dress, which was to be 
worn. Every gentleman must wear a white cravat, 
and no lady could be admitted in a black gown. The 
gates were to be closed as soon as Her Majesty arrived, 
and none of the company could leave till she retired. 

July 10. Thursday. — Galled at Morley's in the 
morning, where I met my friend, J. Howard, Esq., of the 
Irving House, New York, and who informed me that he 
expected to go home in the Atlantic, which was to leave 
Liverpool on the 23d inst. Also, saw my friend, Stevens, 
who gave me some acsount of the last night's ball. 
From Morley's I went to the Museum of the College of 
Surgeons, where, with Prof. Owen, I compared my fos- 
sil bones with those of the arctic living species, the Be- 
luga leucas. There was not a perfect agreement, but 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 87 



the differences were not sufficient, in the opinion of 
Prof. Owen, to justify the formation, from it, of a new 
species. He was not willing to pronounce a positive 
opinion, hut I have little doubt that he regarded it as 
identical in species, with the living Beluga hums. It 
appeared to me to agree as nearly with almost any one 
of the heads of the living species, above named, as they 
agreed among themselves. The number of teeth in them 
is & not uniform. On my way to my room, I was caught 
in a shower, and not having my umbrella, got consider- 
ably wet. Between 3 and 4 we had another smart 
thunder shower. 

July 11. Friday.— Called at Morley's this morning, 
and found there a note from Mrs. Atkinson, inviting me 
to take coffee with them at 9 o'clock, P. M., but on ex- 
amination found it to be dated July 9th— two days ago. 
From Morley's, I passed down by Wesminster Abbey, 
and took a stroll around Millbank Penitentiary, and a 
look at its exterior : and, it may be thought, I was very 
fortunate, that I did not get in, to examine its interior. - I 
learn from the books that, this is the largest penal estab- 
lishment in England, and its exterior shows it to be of 
vast extent. It consists of six pentagonal buildings, sur- 
rounded by a lofty octagonal brick wall, inclosing an 
area of sixteen acres. Six acres of this space are occu- 
pied by the buildings and yards, and nine acres are laid 
out as a garden. The Penitentiary contains 1200 sepa- 
rate cells, lofty and well aired, which are 12 fret long 
and 6 wide. The corridors, in which the cells are situ- 
ated, are more than three miles in length. The whole 
cost was £500,000. 

From the Penitentiary, I proceeded, by way of West- 



JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



minster bridge, to Lambeth Palace, for the purpose of 
delivering the letter kindly furnished me by the Rt. Rev. 
Bishop Hopkins, to the Archbishop of Canterbury. I 
found the Archbishop at home, and alone in his study, 
and had a very agreeable interview with His Grace. 
He was very plain in his appearance and dress, and in 
conversation, very free and affable. He seemed gratified 
with the line from Bishop Hopkins, and to remember 
with pleasure, his former acquaintance and interviews 
with him. Lambeth Palace and gardens occupy, I un- 
derstand, about ten acres, which are surrounded, ex- 
cepting on a portion of the side next the river, by a 
massive brick wall, about 15 feet high. There is noth- 
ing imposing or beautiful in the exterior, but viewed 
within the yard, some of the buildings make a very fine 
appearance. The old Chapel here, was erected by 
Archbishop Boniface, in the 13th century, and is the 
oldest part of the structure. A new Gothic wing was 
added, only a few years since, by the late Dr. Howley, 
and there appears, at the present time, to be a beautiful 
little Gothic chapel in process of erection. There is said 
to be here, a large and excellent library, and many fine 
portraits of Archbishops and others ; but as I spent but 
little time in looking about, I will attempt no further 
descriptions. From Lambeth, I returned to my lodg- 
ings, and rested my weary limbs, by writing to my wife 
and children, in order that my letter may go out by to- 
morrow's Mail-Steamer. After finishing my letter, and 
depositing it in the Post-Office, I called at Mr. Atkin- 
son's, where I remained and took coffee, and where I 
met several Americans. The coffee was prepared upon 
the table, by means of a very ingenious apparatus, heat- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 89 

ed by a spirit-lamp. Mr. Atkinson's residence, at 37, 
Gordon Square, I find to be very near my own lodgings, 
in Euston Place. 

July 12. Saturday. — Have spent most of this day 
in the Zoological Gardens, and have seen very much 
more than I can either describe or remember. They 
are situated in Regent's Park, and were opened to the 
public in 1828. They occupy some ten or a dozen 
acres of the north end of the Park, and are very taste- 
fully laid out ; and the localities, and circumstances, 
and arrangements, are all peculiarly adapted to the 
habitat of the various animals. There is a kind of 
creek for the water-fowls, with its margin lined with 
bushes, and weeds, and grass. Basins, or ponds of 
water, for the white bears, the seals, the hippopotamus, 
the otters, &c, and^paddocks, and kennels, and avia- 
ries, and apartments, which can be suitably warmed 
for the various animals of tropical climates. There 
are, in the whole, no less than sixty-six houses and 
general divisions, appropriated to the different kinds 
of animals. 

The individuals, in which I was most interested, 
w?re the female elephant and calf, the giraffes, and 
the hippopotamus. What attracted my particular at- 
tention, in relation to the elephants, was the nursing 
of the young one. The mammm and teats being 
situated between the fore legs, the calf would, when 
it wished to suck, advance along the side of its mother, 
feeling with its little trunk under her belly, till it found 
one of the two nipples. Then, keeping the end of 
the trunk upon the nipple, it advanced its head for- 



90 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

ward till it could take the nipple in its mouth. As it 
proceeded in sucking, it kept the end of its trunk 
moving about and pressing upon the mamma, pre- 
cisely as the little infant, while nursing, moves and 
presses one of its hands on the breast of its mother. 
The young elephant was about the size of the calf of 
the cow, when a year old, but I was so stupid that I 
did not inquire its age. 

There are four of the giraffes. They were, some 
of them, eating hay, or provender, out of their racks, 
which were situated about twelve feet from the floor. 
The head of the largest, when it stood in its upright 
natural position, I should judge to be sixteen feet 
above the floor. Their eyes bespoke a mild disposi- 
tion, like that of the camel and the sheep. 

But, the object of most interest to me, and the one 
which I found to be the great object of attraction, to 
a majority of those who visited the Gardens, was the 
hippopotamus, which is the first animal of the kind 
ever exhibited alive in England. I found it confined 
in a yard — perhaps four rods square — with a pond, or 
basin, of water in the centre, about two rods across, 
and the inclosure was surrounded by two or three 
hundred spectators. The hippopotamus was lying on 
the platform by the side of the pond, with its eyes 
closed, and apparently asleep. The Nubian keeper 
soon after roused him from his slumbers, and drove 
him into the water. He waded as long as he could 
touch bottom, and then swam lazily across, and crawl- 
ed partly out on the other side ; but he was driven back 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 91 

again into the water, and, after remaining there some 
little time, nearly motionless, he was permitted to 
come out on the side where he went in. In its gen- 
eral form, it had some resemblance to the hog, but its 
body is rounder, having the sides less flattened. Its 
total length, exclusive of the tail, was about seven 
feet ; the height of the back, which was somewhat 
arched, three and a half feet ; and the thickness of 
the body, about two and a half feet — having its ver- 
tical and lateral diameter nearly equal. The tail was 
about 1 J foot long, being of a conical form, having its 
large base attached to the body and tapering nearly to 
a point. The body was naked, the skin resembling 
somewhat, in appearance, that of a hog after the bris- 
tles have been removed, but of a dark, cream brown 
color. I noticed a few short stiff bristles, upon the 
lips, and these were all that I could see. Its ears 
were very small, and its dull, dark eyes, less than the 
medium size, in proportion to the size of the animal; 
as was, also, the top and back part of the head ; but 
there was, in the anterior part of the head, a vast en- 
largement — a kind of spoon-bill aspect — being broader 
across near the end of the snout, than the width of 
the thickest part of the head. The anterior teeth are 
conical, a little hooking, about the size of a man's 
finger and nearly as long, and placed so far asunder 
that the teeth in one jaw interlocked with those in the 
other. There are no prominent canines, or tusks. 
The short, thick legs, terminate in around clump foot, 
with four short thick toes, of nearly equal size. It is 



92 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



a young male, not fully grown, but I did not learn its 
age. 

I find it stated, that there were in the Zoological 
Gardens, on the first of January, 1850, 1361 living 
animals, of which 354 were mammals, 853 birds, 
and 154 reptiles. These gardens belong to the Zoo- 
logical Society, and are open to the public on every 
day in the week, except Sunday. Admittance on 
Monday, §d. ; on other days, Is. 

Within the inclosure of the gardens, is Mr. Gould's 
collection of humming birds. They consist of sev- 
eral hundred well-prepared specimens, belonging to 
about one hundred different species, and for variety, 
brilliancy, and beauty of colors, scarcely any thing in 
the world can equal it. They are arranged unpn 
plants and flowers, some perched and others on the 
wing, in light, glazed cases, and these are arranged in 
a neat little building, erected on purpose for their re- 
ception. 

July 13. Sunday. — Attended Divine service, to- 
day, at Westminster Abbey, but being misinformed 
with regard to the time of its commencement, I did 
not reach the Abbey till it was nearly half over. I 
found the building crammed full of people, in every 
part, and although I elbowed my way into their midst, 
I was not able to reach a position where I could hear, 
understand ingly, either the service or the sermon. 
But, I succeeded in getting along so far in the crowd, 
that I could see the preacher, and see that he officia- 
ted in the surplice and scarf. Five-sixths of the con- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 93 

gregation were obliged to stand, during the whole 
service, for want of seats, and they were so thickly 
crowded that they filled the whole space entirely, 
when standing. As already remarked, I was not able 
to hear enough of the sermon to learn the subject of 
it, but the performances of the organ and choir could 
not be concealed, and it is sufficient proof that the music 
was exquisite, to state, that it produced an effect even 
upon me, as it reverberated among the clustered col- 
umns and through the long and lofty Gothic arched 
aisles. I could, on this occasion, only glance at the 
numerous tablets, and sculptures, and monuments, in 
this renowned old edifice, but hope soon to find time 
to survey them more minutely. Being somewhat 
fatigued by my walk to the Abbey and back, it being 
a mile and a half from my lodgings, and it being show- 
ery in the afternoon, I did not go out, but spent the 
remainder of the day in my room. 

July 14. Monday. — Spent this day in that place, 
where parts of all the things in the world are callected 
together — called the British Museum. But, who is he, 
who will undertake a description of the British Muse- 
um ? He must, indeed, be a verdant stripling or an 
imbecile dote. Why, a full description of this Museum, 
would form a cyclopedia of science, literature, and an- 
tiquities, far more complete, than was ever yet publish- 
ed. Saying nothing of the immense amount of natural 
productions, only think of 800,000 volumes of printed 
books, 65,000 volumes of manuscripts, several thousand 

pieces of sculpture, varying in weight from a few 
9 



94 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



ounces to several tons, and consisting of tablets, and 
s aUies, and sarcophagi, and obelisks, and collossal im- 
ages, collected into this place, from the rnins of Abys- 
sinia, and Nubia, and Egypt, and Assyria, and Greece, 
and Rome, and many of them bearing, in writing or 
hieroglyhics, important historical records of the remotest 
periods of antiquity. 

The edifices, which constitute the British Museum, 
form a quadrangle, built around an open square, 238 
feet by 317. The quadrangle of buildings measures 
about 600 feet in front and depth : and the front of the 
main building, which is towards Great Russell street, 
is very elegant and imposing. It has a colonade of 44 
columns, which are of Portland stone, five leet in di- 
ameter and forty-five feet high. The grand entrance 
into the main building, is in the centre of this front, 
which is separated from the street by a spacious yard 
and a high iron fence. Appended to the two corners, 
and advancing nearly to the street, are two elegant 
buildings, for offices and officer's aparments. 

I have spent my time to-day, among the antiquities, 
both of art and nature, and could do little else, as I 
passed along from room to room and gallery to gallery, 
but gaze and wonder. I first passed round among the 
Roman and Grecian sculptures, among the Elgin and 
Ninevah marbles, and through the Townley and Egyp- 
tian saloon, and thence ascended by the stairway to the 
second floor. I first passed through the Egyptian room 
above, and the rooms filled with Etruscan vase?, and 
then spent the remainder of the day amongst the fos- 
sils and minerals. The fossils interested me more than 
any other class of objects. These antique medals of a 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 93 

creation. of mammals, anterior to the existing fauna, 
opened to me a new field of observation, and I spent 
considerable time in comparing the fossil teeth of the 
mastodon, the elephant, the megatherium, and many 
other large and distinct species ; and f found, somewhat 
to my surprise, that the grinders of the greater part of 
them were tuberculated on the grinding surface, like 
those of the mastodon, and not lined and rideed with 
enamel, as is the case with the elephant. Among the 
minerals, I noticed many specimens of native gold, 
from various countries. 

July 15, Tuesday. — Rested much better last night, 
than I had anticipated, after my hard day's wcrk, yes- 
terday, and have spent the whole of this day at the 
Crystal Palace. Went in a little after 10 A. M., and 
continued there, amidst a moving mass of humanity, 
almost as varied as the objects of the Exhibition, till 4 
P. M. The building was densely crowded — so much 
so that, it was extremely difficult moving from place to 
place, and I learn, this evening, that the number of vis- 
itors to the Palace to-day, has exceeded the number on 
any previous day, since the opening of the Exhibition, 
being over 71.000. I have confined my attention to- 
day, to the north gallery, but have hardly glimpsed at 
one tenth it contains. I found my friend, Shattuck, at 
his post, beside his rail- way -car wheels, in the American 
department. At the room of the American agency here, 
there is a book, in which Americans, who arrive, record 
their names and residences, &e., and when here, some 
days ago, I entered my own name, and now find that, 
more than 200 have entered their names since ; but I do 
not find any among them, with whom I am acquainted. 



96 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



I procured refreshments at the Palace, and sat down 
several times, to rest me ; but I found myself very much 
fatigued, when I reached my lodgings. 

July 16. Wednesday. — Thinking it would be most 
prudent, to be getting off for the United States, as soon 
as the 1st of August, I started this morning, with my 
friend, Stevens, for the purpose of making inquiries, at 
the several Steamer Offices, in regard to my passage, 
being yet undecided in what way I should return. On 
the Thames, there are a great many swift little Steam- 
ers, which are constantly plying between all the impor- 
tant points along the river, and they are constantly filled 
with passengers, the fare being only one penny. We 
proceeded to the nearest landing station, which was at 
Charing-Cross Iron Bridge; which bridge, by the by, is 
a very interesting structure. The total weight of the 
chains, consisting of 2600 links, is 715 tons. It consists 
of three arches ; the span of the centre one being 676^ ft., 
and those on each side, 333 feet, each. The height of 
the road- way in the centre, is 32 feet above high- water 
mark. Cost £106,000. It was designed for foot passen- 
gers only, and was opened to the public, May 1, 1845. 
From the north pier of this bridge, there is a stair- way 
leading down to the steamboat landing which we found 
crowded with people, awaiting their turn to get on 
board, or to make their way off from the boats, two or 
three of which were hauled up there. After waiting 
about ten minutes, we got on board, and were soon 
gliding down the Thames. The tide was out, and all 
the water of the mighty Thames, was confined to a 
narrow channel, but little exceeding in width, our own 
little Winooski. The bed of the river, on each side of 



LOND ON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 97 



the channel, appeared like a vast quagmire, in which 
were lying vessels of various sizes, and in all positions 
—some standing upright on their keels, some on thei r 
sides, some on their bows, and some on their sterns. In 
sailing down the river, when just below Waterloo bridge, 
we had, from the boat, a very fine view of the Somerset 
House, which is regarded as one of the finest buildings 
in London. It is built in the form of a quadrangle, 
surrounding an open court, being 800 feet in length, 
and 530 in depth, lying between the river and the 
Strand. The front next the river is strikingly grand 
and beautiful. The Royal Society, the Antiquarian 
Society, the Geological Society, the Astronomical Soci- 
ety, and the School of Design, have apartments in this 
building, where they hold their meetings. 

In going from Charing-Cross Bridge, to London 
Bridge, a distance of about one mile, we passed under 
three massive bridges, which span the Thames, viz: 
Waterloo, Black Frairs', and Southwark. The two 
former are built of stone, and the latter of iron. Water- 
loo bridge, pronounced by Canova, to be the first struc- 
ture of the kind in the world, and by M. Dauphin, the 
celebrated French engineer, to be " a colossal monument, 
worthy of Sesostris and the Caesars," was opened in 
June, 1817. It is really a noble structure. The num- 
ber of persons passing and repassing in the little steam- 
ers on the Thames, is truly wonderful. At each pier, 
the boats are arriving and departing as often, on an 
average, as once every ten minutes, through the day; 
and they are all the time crowded with passengers, and 
move from place to place with great celerity. 

From London Bridge, I went to the offices of the sev- 

9* 



93 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

eral ocean Steamers, and concluded to take passage 
home in the Humboldt, which is to leave on the 30th 
instant. 

I returned on foot, and on my way stopped to take 
my first look at the interior of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
When I entered the great body of the Church, I stopped 
and looked about me with as much astonishment, 
presume, as President Austin once manifested, when he 
came in sight of a certain conflagration, which to^k 
place in the rear of the Vermont University. Our emo- 
tions must, however, have been quite different, as well 
as our exclamations. lie held up both of his hands, and 
rociferated — ■" ridiculous ! ridiculous ! /" — while I was 
forced to exclaim — "magnificent I magnificent ! /" For 
magnificence and grandeur, I think St. Paul's exceeds 
any public edifice I have seen. The building, of which 
it most reminds me, in its architecture and general form, 
is the Pantheon, in Paris, where Foucault first demon- 
strated the earth's rotation, as already mentioned ; but 
in magnitude, the Pantheon is a mere pigmy, compared 
with St. Paul's. The general dimensions of St. Paul's 
Cathedral are, 510 feet in length, 290 in width, and 400 
til heighth ; and it is a remarkable fact, that this im- 
mense edifice, second only to St. Peter's in Rome, was 
begun and completed in the short space of 35 years, by 
one architect, Sir Christopher Wren, one principal ma- 
son, Mr. Thomas Strong, and under one Bishop of Lon- 
don, Dr. Henry Compton, while St. Peter's was 155 
years in building, under 19 Popes, by 12 successive 
architects. I spent about an hour in the Cathedral, 
looking at the monuments erected to the memory of the 
heroes of England, and in admiring the vastness of the 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 99 

edifice which enshrined them, and then finished my 
day's work hy walking two miles to my lodgings. 

July 17. Thursday. Spent this day at the Great 
Exhibition in the Crystal Palace ; but it is of no use to 
attempt to write down particulars of what I saw. It 
would be as easy to give a botanical description of the 
productions of one of our western prairies, from data col- 
lected during a ride through it on horseback, as it would 
for an occasional visitor to give an account of the arti- 
cles in the Exhibition. I may, however, mention one 
thing which I stopped and gazad at with some little as- 
tonishment. Upon a massive iron safe, standing in the 
nave of the building, a little east of the transept, sur- 
rounded by a strong railing, and underneath a grated 
coronal dome, through which intrusive hands could not 
enter, was seen a little obovoid nodule, less in size than 
half an ordinary apple, and which might easily be mis- 
taken for a lump of flint glass, carelessly dropped in a 
glass-house — and this is neither more nor less than the 
world-famed diamond, "Koh-i-Noor" of Runjeet Singh, 
valued at £2,000,000 sterling, (nearly $10,000,000 ! ! !) 
a sum which would build fourteen Crystal Palaces, or, 
would build a handsome church in every town in New 
England. 

July IS. Friday. — Spent the forenoon in an excur- 
sion to the lower part of the city, and at half-past one, 
P. M., went to the Waterloo Rail-Way station, and took 
a passage in the cars to Wimbledon Common, for the 
purpose of delivering letters to Mrs. Maryatt. I found 
her carriage at the door, and that she was about leaving 
to fulfil an engagement abroad. She remained to read 
her letters, and gave me a pressing invitation to remain 



100 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

and dine with her. I found her to be an interesting and 
venerable old lady, of more than 80 years, and yet, 
apparently quite healthy and active. The village of 
Wimbledon is neat, but small. It is entered on the 
south-east side by a gate, and opens to the north-west 
into a beautiful and extensive common. The delightful 
residence of Mrs. Maryatt, is situated on the side of the 
little village, adjacent to the common, and is surrounded 
by beautiful gardens and groves. I spent about half an 
hour with Miss Maryatt, after her mother's departure, 
and returned, by the 4 o'clock train, to London. 

July 19. Saturday. — Rained most of the day — 
did not go to the Crystal Palace, as I had intended, 
but spent considerable time in Westminster Abbey. 
The more I see of this venerable building, the more I 
admire it. The interior of St. Paul's appears more 
vast, as does also the interior of Notre Dame, in Paris ; 
but there is something about the old-clustered col- 
umns, and the lofty-pointed arches of the Abbey, 
which produces, in my mind, emotions quite different 
from either of those. It seems, as it were, the avenue 
from earth to heaven. 

Most of the time spent to-day, in the Abbey, was 
devoted to an inspection of the chapels which sur- 
rounded the choir, and in that magnificent addition to 
the Abbey, known as Henry VII. Chapel. This last 
chapel is a place of exceeding great interest, not only 
on account of its architectural structure and orna- 
ments, but of the trophies and monuments it contains. 
It is entered from the Abbey by a flight of several 
steps. It is 115 feet long, 80 wide, and the top of its 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 101 

turrets 102 feet high. Westminster Abbey, exclusive 
of Henry VII Chapel, is, in length, 416 feet ; width 
at the transept, 203 feet; height of the west towers, 
225 feet. 

July 20. Sunday. — Had calculated to attend the 
services in St. Paul's Cathedral to-day, but the morn- 
ing being showery, and St. Paul's more than two 
miles from my lodgings, I concluded to attend the 
parish church on the east side of Euston Square, call- 
ed St. Pancreas' Church. This is a large and elegant 
church, built of brick, and faced with Portland stone. 
It is modelled in imitation of the Athenian temple of 
Erectheus. Its length is 117 feet, width 60, and the 
height of its steeple 168 feet. It has galleries on 
three sides, supported by columns, copied -from the 
Elgin marbles. The church has a commanding ap- 
pearance, with a beautiful portico, and is very neat 
and elegant within, I found the church well filled, 
by a respectable looking and very attentive audience. 
The service was read by a young clergyman ; at the 
close of which, he published the bans of marriage 
between about one hundred couple. Before he got 
through his formidable list, I began to think that some 
Millerite had been laboring successfully in the parish, 
or that some new comet was approaching, which, it 
was expected, would burn up the world. 

The sermon was preached by the rector of the 
church, the Rev. Thomas Dale, and he delivered a most 
excellent discourse, and did it too in a very impres- 
sive manner. I attended the afternoon services in the 



102 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARl3> 

Same church, and the same persons officiated as in the 
forenoon. Mr. D.'s text, in the forenoon, was founded 
on a portion of the third chapter of the 1st Epistle 
to the Corinthians, from the 11th to the 15th verses ; 
and in the afternoon, upon the last clause of the 47th 
verse of the 2d chapter of the Acts ; and, according 
to my views, he gave two well-written, sound and 
scriptural discourses, in which it was shown that 
Christ was the only foundation — that on this founda- 
tion the true church of God was built, and that the 
Church of England was undoubtedly a part of the 
true church of God. If such sermons were generally 
preached in the pulpits of the establishment, and the 
clergymen illustrated their discourses by consistent 
examples, they would need, I think, to have little 
fear of Romanism on the one hand, or dissent on the 
other. Ecclesiastical Titles Bills might safely be dis- 
pensed with. I passed the evening at Mr. Atkinson's, 
where I met several Americans. 

July 21. Monday. — Have had a very hard day's 
work, but, withal, a very interesting one. Went first 
to Temple Bar, thence to Temple Church, thence to 
the Mint, and thence to the famous Tower of Lon- 
don, where I spent the greater part of the day. Tem- 
ple Bar is the only boundary, now remaining visible, 
of the old city of London. It is an arched gateway, 
crossing Fleet street, and formerly separated London 
from Westminster. Temple Gardens, Temple Church, 
and many things about this location of the Knights 
Templars, are very interesting, particularly the church, 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 103 

near which are buried the mortal remains of Oliver 
Goldsmith, while his monument, with Dr. Johnson's 
inscription, is in Poet's Corner, Westminster Abbey. 

The Tower, which engaged my chief attention, is, 
in every respect, an interesting and wonderful place. 
Its exterior consists of a strong wall, provided with 
angular bastions, and surrounded by a broad ditch. 
The interior consists of a parade ground and numer- 
ous buildings, of which that ca'Ied the White Tower 
is the most conspicuous. All parts are freely accessi- 
ble to the public, excepting the Armory and the Jewel 
House. For admission to each of these, a fee of 6d. 
is required ; and, for that, the visitor has the benefit 
of a guide, who names and explains the several ob- 
jects, in passing along. The first long hall of the 
Armory, is filled with figures of ancient lungs and 
knigh{s, and noblemen, on horseback, clad, in many 
cases, in the identical armor which the persons wore, 
while living. In this and the various other depart- 
ments, are preserved the warlike implements, of of- 
fence and defence, of English history. Here is pre- 
served the axe, with which state criminals were be- 
headed ; and I was shown the block, said to be the 
identical one, on which the head of Anne Boleyn was 
chopped off. I parsed through the room in which Sir 
Walter Raleigh was incarcerated for twelve years, and 
went into the damp, windowless cell, which was his 
sleeping room. 

In the Jewel House, which is situated to the north- 
eastward of the Armory, is a room called the Rega- 



104 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

lia, in which are deposited the crown jewels, from 
the reign of Henry IV. They consist of fonts, tank- 
ards, goblets, &c. of pure gold, crowns of the English 
sovereigns, and a great variety of precious things. 
Among the crowns, is that worn by the present Queen, 
Victoria, valued at one million sterling. The whole 
collection is valued at several millions ; and while look- 
ing at it, I could not avoid thinking how much more 
good might be effected by those millions, if expended 
in relieving the sufferings and elevating the character 
of the lower classes of the community, instead of stand- 
ing here to be gazed at. Imitations, in wood, with the 
exterior well gilded, would answer the same purpose 
here, if the deception were not detected ; and there 
would be little chance for detection, by visitors, since 
they are not permitted to come within eight feet of the 
articles. The simple interest of the estimated value of 
the regalia, would amount to nearly a million of dollars 
annually, and would furnish the liberal salary of £200 
sterling per annum to one thousand Christian mission- 
aries. It looks, to me, rather anti-utilitarian to lock up 
so much wealth for mere ostentation. 

July 22. Tuesday. — Having obtained my ticket yes- 
terday, entitling me to a seat in the Peace Congress, as 
delegate from Vermont, I proceeded, this morning, to 
Exeter Hall, the place of meeting, where I arrived 
about half-past 10. I found a large number of dele- 
gates and spectators already assembled ; and at 11, the 
time of organizing the meeting, the immense hall ap- 
peared to be entirely filled. The congress was called 
to order by Mr. Richards, one of the secretaries, and 
Sir David Brewster was elected president ; who, on ta- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 105 

king the chair, delivered a very beautifully written and 
appropriate inaugural address. 

Mr. Richards having read the names of the foreign 
delegates in attendance, remarked that he would not take 
up the time of the Congress in reading over the names 
of the British delegates, since they amounted to more 
than a thousand. The resolutions to be brought before 
the Congress, were prepared by the standing committee, 
and published in a programme of the proceedings ; but 
before their discussion was entered upon, a short time 
was devoted to silent prayer, for the Divine blessing 
upon their labors. 

Two resolutions were very amply discussed during 
this day's session: the first in relation to the influence 
of the pulpit, the school and the press, in the diffusion 
of peace principles; and the second, upon the settle- 
ment of national disputes, by arbitration. The first res- 
olution was introduced by the Rev. J. A. James, and 
supported by a very able speech. He was followed by 
the Rev. Mr. Brock, Rev. Dr. Aspinall, Rev. A. Coc- 
querel, Jr., Prof. Saler, a Spaniard, and M. J. Delbruck, 
Editor of a Journal of Education, in Paris. The second 
resolution was introduced and ably supported by M. 
Visschers, of Brussels. He was followed by the Rev. 
Dr. Beck with, Secretary of the American Peace Society, 
and the Rev. J. Burnet. Mr. Beckwith's speech was 
highly creditable to himself, and to the friends of Peace 
in America. Mr. Burnet's was filled with humor, and 
well calculated to secure the interest of the audience to 
the close of the five hours sitting. He told them, among 
other things that, if war was wisdom, there must be, in 

that hall, an immense gathering of fools : that the peace 
10 ' r 



106 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

of the world was not to be kept by their Wellingtons, 
but by their Brewsters. These resolutions were sup- 
ported by a considerable display of oratory, and were 
adopted unanimously. 

July 23. Wednesday. — Have spent all this day in 
attendance upon the Peace Congress. The weather has 
been dark and foggy, with some rain ; but notwith- 
standing this, Exeter Hall has been filled all day, to its 
utmost capacity. The air has been hot and oppressive ; 
but the patient and quiet endurance of the audience, for 
five loflg hours, has showed clearly that the war spirit 
was not rampant there, but that, on the contrary, the 
advocates of peace could illustrate their principles by 
their examples. 

Three resolutions have been discussed to-dsiy. The 
first in relation to a mutual and general reduction of 
national armaments ; second, thv* non -interference of one 
nation in the internal affairs of another : and third, the 
wrongs perpetrated by civilized nations upon uncivilized 
tribes. The first of these resolutions was supported by 
Mr. Cobden, Member of Parliament, in one of the ablest 
speeches I have yet heard. lie was followed by M. ce 
Pompery, of Paris, and by Mr. Ewart and Mr. Macgregor, 
two other Members of Parliament. The second resolu- 
tion was supported by Mr. Vincent. Dr. Beaumont, and 
M. Gamier, the French Secretary. The third resolu- 
tion was moved by Mr. Burnet, and was supported by 
him, and by Rev. F. Crowe, of Guatemala, the Rev. II. 
Garnett, and Mr. Girardin, of La Prcsse. M. Girardin 
said he was not a soldier, but a deserter, having deserted 
from the National Assembly of France, that he might be 
present in this Congress, where he was delighted to find 
himself. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. Mti 



July 24. 1 'hursday.— Having learned that Dr. John 
C. Warren, of Boston, had arrived in London, and was 
stopping at the Brunswick Hotel, on Hanover Square. 
I called on him for a few moments, and also upon my 
friend, Mr. Yarrell, on my way to Exeter Hall. Mr. 
Yarreil was so kind as to present me a copy of his 
beautifully illustrated work, on British Fishes, in two 
octavo volumes. 

When I reached Exeter Hall, the business of the 
Congress had already commenced. Fifteen working- 
m-.i, from Paris, had been introduced, and addresses 
were mads by C. Hindley, M. P., by Pierre Ymsard, one 
of the working-men, and Dr. Kreutznach, of Frankfort- 
on-the-Maine, The first resolution of the day, which 
related to the immorality, and other evils of loans for 
warlike purposes, was introduced and well supported by 
Mr. Charles Gilpin, of London, and was further discussed 
by Mr. Miall, Editor of the Nonconformist, Mr. S. Gur- 
ney, Mr. Cobden, Mr. Buckingham and M. Avigdon, 
banker of Nice. The proceeding resolution being car- 
ried, M. de Cormenin, of Paris, moved the next resolu- 
tion, which recommended that, the friends of Peace 
should support, by their votes, in all Constitutional 
Countries, measures for the diminution of the number of 
man employed in, and the amount of money expended 
for, war purposes. He supported the resolution, in a 
speech of considerable length; but as he spoke in the 
French language, I was unable to judge of its merits. 
T.13 speech of M. de Cormenin was followed by some 
pertinent remarks by the Rev. Dr. Massie, after which 
the resolution was unanimously adopted. Mr. Elihu 
Burritt then arose, and proposed a resolution, in rela- 



108 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

tion to the formation of an authorative code of interna- 
tional law. This resolution he supported, in a long and 
able speech, which was highly applauded. He was 
followed by M. Coignet, of Lyons, M. Peuh, M. Bouvet, 
of the French National Assembly, and Dr. Seherzer, of 
Vienna. The next resolution, relating to the effect of 
the Great Industrial Exhibition of all nations, in promo- 
ting peace principles, was then read, and, without dis- 
cussion, was passed by acclamation. 

Then, after the transaction of a little business, the 
President of the Congress arose, and delivered a short, 
but very impressive farewell address. Votes of thanks 
to the several officers of the Congress, having been 
unanimously passed, a final adjournment took place at 
half past 4, P.M. 

During the progress of the meeting of the Congress, 
letters of adhesion to the Peace Cause, were read, from 
a large number of distinguished individuals, who were 
unable to attend. Among these may be mentioned the 
names of the Archbishop of Dublin, Thomas Carlyle, 
Baron Humboldt, Liebeg the Chemist, and Victor Hugo. 

At the adjournment of the Congress, it was announced 
that the British delegates would give a soiree on the 
evening of the next day, Friday, at Willis' Rooms, for 
the special reception of the foreign delegates, and tickets 
were furnished accordingly. 

On every account, I must say that, I look upon the 
present meeting of the World's Peace Congress, as a 
great and interesting affair ; and when I look upon it 
in connection with the Great Industrial Exhibition, 
where there is not only a commingling, in the Crystal 
Palace, of the choicest productions of all countries, but, 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 109 



at tha same time, a friendly commingling and a peaceful 
and noble rivalry of the people of the different nations, 
I can regard them in no other light, than that of har- 
bing3rs and hasteners of the time predicted, when u the 
wolf shall lie down with the lamb" — when " the nations 
shall learn war no more," — and when all the families 
and kindred of the whole earth, shall be gathered into 
one fold, wider one shepherd — and he u The Prince of 
Peace." * 

July 25. Friday. — Got off pretty early, this morn- 
ing, on an excursion to the lower part of the city. I at 
first spent some time in wandering about the St. Kathe- 
rine's and London Docks. These are situated on the 
north side of the river, a little below the Tower. Their 
great extent, the vast amount of shipping, and the im- 
mense number and magnitude of the store-houses, ar.e 
calculated to overwhelm and bewilder a stranger in a 
hasty survey. These docks occupy 39 acres, and cost 
more than £6,000,000 sterling; but they are of much 
less extent than the East and West India Docks, lying 
further down the river. The West India Docks, includ- 
ing the canal leading into them, occupy 295 acres, but 
I found no time to visit them. 

From the London Docks I proceeded to the Thames 
Tunnel. This tunnel passes under the bed of the river, 
in the eastern part of the metropolis, and nearly two miles 
below London Bridge. It was originally projected and 
finally constructed by the energy and skill of Sir I. K. 
Brunei. It was begun in 1S25, and opened to the pub- 

* A brief report of the doings of the Peace Congress, was made by the 
the author to the Chairman of the Vermont Peace Committee, and pub- 
lished in the Vermont Chronicle. 

10* 



110 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

lie in 1843. It consists of a square mass of brick- work, 
37 feet wide and 22 feet high, containing in it two 
arched passages, each I63 feet wide, and \b\ feet high. 
Each passage has a carriage road 13^ feet wide, and a 
side- walk 3 feet wide. The two passages are separated 
by open arches, and the whole interior is well lighted 
with gas, having a burner in each arch. The whole 
length of the tunnel is 1300 feet, and the thickness, be- 
tween the tops of the arches and the bottom of the river 
over them, is 15 feet. The cost of the Tunnel was 
£614,000. Though carriage roads are constructed in 
the Tunnel, there is no way provided for carriages to 
enter it at either end. Foot passengers gain admission 
by descending a circular shaft, some 40 feet wide, and 
60 feet deep, by circular stairs, and emerge on the other 
side of the river by a similar shaft, after passing through 
the tunnel. The toll is one penny. It is not found to 
be so much used as a business thoroughfare as was ex- 
pected, but large numbers pass through to admire it as 
a curiosity ; and yet the revenue from it affords no ad- 
equate return for the outlay in its construction. I entered 
the tunnel on the north side of the river, and emerged 
from it on the south side. I found nearly all parts of it 
thronged with people moving in different directions, and 
in almost all the arches, near the lights, were stands for 
the sale of refreshments, toys, and a great variety of 
useful and fancy articles. As I walked deliberately 
along, admiring the beauty of the arches and the vast- 
ness of the work, I could not help thinking, what a 
scampering, and scrambling and screaming would take 
place among the inmates of the tunnel, in case the 
mighty Thames, which was rolling over our heads, 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. Ill 

should burst through the brick arch, which protected us, 
and pour in upon us a deluge of water. 

I returned to the north side of the river by way of 
London Bridge, and in the evening, availing myself of 
the ticket furnished me for the soiree, I proceeded to 
Willis' Rooms, where I found myself in a party con- 
sisting of more than a thousand persons, about one 
third of whom were ladies. These rooms are very large 
and airy, beautifully finished and richly furnished, with 
sofas and mirrors and pictures, and are regarded as one 
of the most fashionable and honorable places of enter- 
tainment in London. I found in the vast crowd, but 
few to whom I had been previously introduced. Mr. 
Beckwith and Mr. Burritt, were the only Americans 
present, with whom I was acquainted. The evening 
was mostly spent in conversation in little clusters ; but 
a short time before I left, several gentlemen entertained 
the company by short speeches. The refreshments were 
quite simple. They consisted of several kinds of cake, 
strawberries and ice-creams ; with lemonade, tea and 
coffee for drinks. I left the company a little after 11. 

July 26. Saturday. — Day stormy — spent a large 
part of it in Westminster Abbey. There are three 
principal entrances to the Abbey — from the west, un- 
der the great towers, into the nave — from the church- 
yard, on the north, into the north transept — and from 
the east, between the Chapter House and the main 
body of the Abbey, into the south transept. This 
last entrance is directly opposite to the entrance to the 
House of Lords, in the new Houses of Parliament. 

The south transept is best known by the name of 
Poet's Corner ; and it derives its name from the cir- 



112 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

cumstance, that it contains monuments erected to the 
memory of nearly all the distinguished English poets. 
The number of inscriptions in Poet's Corner exceeds 
fifty. Among these, I noticed the names of Geoffrey 
Chaucer, William Shakspeare, Ben Johnson, Edmund 
Spenser, Samuel Butler, John Milton, Thomas Gray, 
Matthew Prior, John Dryden, Abraham Cowley, James 
Thomson, Oliver Goldsmith, and so on. The monu- 
ments to distinguished civilians, jurists, and men of 
science, are mostly in the nave and north transept. 
The dignitaries in church and state, embracing bish- 
ops, saints, nobility, and royalty, have their monu- 
ments and inscriptions mostly in the choir and the 
numerous chapels. I learn, from a published list, 
that the whole number is three hundred and fifty. 

Coleridge once said — " On entering a Cathedral, I 
am filled with devotion and awe ; I am lost to the 
actualities that surround me, and my whole being is 
merged into the infinite— earth and air, nature and 
art, all swell up into eternity, and the only sensible 
impression left is, that I am nothing ; /,; and it seems 
to me as if it were hardly possible for any one to en- 
ter Westminster Abbey without experiencing some- 
what of this sentiment. While looking around upon 
the dingy monuments of knights and princes, and 
endeavoring to decipher their half-obliterated inscrip- 
tions, the truth of the well-known lines — 

" A heap of dust alone remains of thee, 
'Tis all thou art " 

was continually forcing itself upon my thoughts, not- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 113 

withstanding all these costly efforts to immortalize 
their chivalry. 

July 27. Sunday. — Attended morning service at 
St. Paul's Cathedral, but being mistaken half an hour 
in the time of its commencing, I found the choir, in 
which it was performed, filled when I arrived, in con- 
sequence of which I failed in hearing much of the 
service. The choir, in which the public religious 
services were performed, is separated from the nave 
of the church by a bronze grating, nearly over which 
stands the great organ. The gateways through this 
grating are closed, when the service commences, which 
prevents any from going in, or coming out, during the 
service, so that a person arriving too late is able to 
hear very little, excepting the voice of the immense 
organ. Excepting a few who listened on the outside 
of the grate, the multitude, which could not gain 
access to the choir, spent the time of service in the 
body of the church, looking at the monuments and 
inscriptions. 

The monuments here are few in number, and 
mostly of modern date. Among these, are monu- 
ments of Nelson, Collingwood, Cornwallis, Abercrom- 
bie, Sir William Jones, Bishop Heber, Dr. Johnson, 
and Howard, the philanthropist. Nelson's tomb is in 
the vault below. 

Over the entrance into the choir, is a modest in- 
scription to the memory of the builder of the cathe- 
dral, in Latin, of which the following is a translation : 
" Beneath lies Christopher Wren, the architect of this 



114 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

church, and city, who lived more than 90 years, not for 
himself alone, but the public. Reader, do you ask his 
monument ? Look around ! " 

July 2S. Monday. — Spent the greater part of this 
day in the British Museum. Noticing that most, of 
the fresh water species of molluscs of Lake Cham- 
1 plain were wanting in their collection of shells, I 
gave them several specimens of our Limnaa incga- 
s'oma ; also some geological specimens from Vermont. 

July 29. Tuesday. — When I called upon Mr. 
Lawrence, the American Minister, soon after my arri- 
val in London, he very kindly offered to give me 
tickets to several places which I thought I might like 
to visit. But, finding that the time of my departure 
was so near that I should not be able to avail myself 
of them, I called upon him this morning to thank 
him for his proffered favors. His residence is near 
the west end of Piccadilly Street, not far from the 
corner of Hydepark, and having Green Park on the 
south. I was received very politely, and he appeared 
to treat the Americans generally, who called upon 
him, with much attention. 

From the residence of the American Minister I 
went to the Crystal Palace, where I spent the remain- 
der of the day. I have now probably made my last 
visit to the Crystal Palace ; but I have no time, this 
evening, to record, in my journal, as I would like to 
do, some general remarks respecting this wonderful 
building and what it contains. That must be defer- 
red to a more convenient period. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 115 



July 30. Wednesday. — -Spent the forenoon in at- 
tending to sundry little matters preparatory to my de- 
parture from London, and at 2 P. M. proceeded in a 
cab to the Waterloo Railway station. At 3, precisely, 
I left London in the express train for Southampton, 
where I arrived at 5, making the passage of eighty 
miles in just two hours, including two stoppings, 
amounting to about five minutes. The fare from 
London to Southampton is $3. 

After the usual ceremony and bustle, and paying 
the several fees of porterage, dockage, &c, I found 
myself at 5J P. M. on board the steamer, Queen, 
where I met with a Mr. Jackson and wife, who were 
passengers out with me in the Franklin, and were 
now on their return. We left Southampton a little 
before 6 P. M. and arrived at Cowes at 7, where we 
lay till nearly 9, awaiting the arrival of the Humboldt 
from Havre. At 10, we were all safely on board the 
Humboldt, and ready to take our departure for Ameri- 
ca. I had been but a fe-.v minutes en board be- 
fore a gentleman came up to me and called me by 
name : and I was no less delighted than surprised to 
learn, that he was a Vermouter and a near neighbor 
to me when at home — O. F. Holabird, Esq., of Shel- 
burne. He informs me that he is concerned with S. 
W. Jewett, Esq., of Weybridge, in getting out to the 
United States a choice variety of sheep, and that he 
had been to France on that business. We neither of 
us knew that the other was in Europe, and the 
thought that I am to have his company across the 
wide ocean, is to me the source of much gratification. 



116 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



July 31. Thursday. — I retired to my state-room 
last night at about 11 J, and slept very well till 5 this 
morning. I find my state-room nearer mid -ship and 
more pleasantly situated than the one I occupied on 
board the Franklin, and that my chum is a youngster 
by the name of McKenzie. When I arose this morn- 
ing, I found the heavens overcast with clouds, and 
it has continued cloudy all day, with fog, slight 
sprinkles of rain, and a strong breeze directly ahead. 
Have had fine views of the coast of England, as we 
passed along, and of the Edystone and several other 
light-houses. Saw land for the last time a little after 
noon. The sea has been somewhat rough during the 
day, and the effect of the pitching and tossing of the 
ship, I see, is quite plainly depicted in the counte- 
nances of the passengers. The sun not having been 
visible to-day, no observations could be made for time 
or latitude. In going into the dock at Havre, the 
frame work of the Humboldt's engine was badly 
cracked, and this afternoon it was found that so much 
friction was produced, in consequence, that parts of 
the machinery had become heated almost to a red 
heat. They were, therefore, obliged to stop the en- 
gine for more than half an hour for the purpose of 
cooling it, and strengthening the frame work, by 
means of wedges. The injury is greater than was 
supposed, when the ship left Havre, and fears are had 
that it may entirely fail before we get across the At- 
lantic. 

August 1. Friday. — Another cloudy day, with a 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 117 

strong head wind. Nearly all on board are suffering 
seriously by sea-sickness, and some are very sick. 
Have felt some nausea and loss of appetite, but suffer 
very little compared with most others. Have passed 
in sight of two or three sail, but nothing has occur- 
red of much interest. It may be set down as a dull, 
gloomy day, characterized only by sea-sickness and 
the monotony of the ocean. 

August 2. Saturday. — In most respects, this day 
may be set down as ditto to yesterday. The wind 
was strong ahead all night, and has continued so 
through the day, and the ship has tossed and pitched 
very badly — a state of things not well calculated for 
the speedy removal of sea-sickness. The condition 
of the sufferers does not appear much improved. And 
while the situation of those on board has been made 
very disagreeable by unfavorable wind and weather, 
it has been made doubly irksome, by repeatedly stop- 
ping the engine to cool and wedge up the machinery. 
Saw the sun a few moments to-day, but think Capt. 
Lines was not able to get a good observation for time 
and latitude. Saw a large school of porpoises gam- 
boling and leaping out of the water in their usual 
way. The day is closing as it began, with the wind 
and sea high, and the weather foggy, chilly and gloo- 
my. 

August 3, Sunday. — The wind continued high 
and ahead during the night, but abated in the morn- 
ing, and before noon came round and blew lightly from 

the north, the sea at the same time becoming less agi- 
11 



118 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



tated ; but our broken engine gave us much anxiety, 
and the ship was frequently stopped for the purpose 
of strengthening it by wedging and bracing. If our 
engines should finally fail us, it must take us a very 
long time to reach land in any direction, as we are 
now about one-third of the distance across the ocean, 
and our means of sailing very feeble. The wind, 
which had been light during the forenoon, began to 
increase about 1 P. M., and is now (9 P. M.) blowing 
quite a gale from the north, accompanied by rain and 
mist. Our sails are all spread, and we are making 
better progress than heretofore, but the ship pitches 
and rolls considerably. 

AuGrsT 4. Monday. — Retired last night about 10, 
and slept very soundly till 4, when I awoke almost 
suffocated, on account of the closeness of the win- 
dows, doors and hatches, they all having been shut 
during the night to keep out the water and spray 
which was dashing over the ship. The wind had 
much abated, and the weather was fair, with the ther- 
mometer at 58° in the shade. A little before 9 A. M., 
passed and spoke the Norwegian barque Ottillia, bound 
to Quebsc. At 10, passed a sail on our starboard, 
bound eastward ; and about noon, saw four small 
whales, swimming nearly abreast and very near to- 
gether. Their heads and backs were at the surface 
of the water, and the spray, which they blew up in 
breathing., appeared to rise only a few feet. Before 
night it became more cloudy, and the wind changed 
to the south-west, and is now blowing quite hard. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 119 

August 5. Tuesday. — I was awakened this morn- 
ing, between 1 and 2 o'clock, by the whistling of the 
wind among the shrouds and the motion of the ship, 
and after lying awake till half-past 2, arose and went 
on deck. The wind was blowing a brisk gale from 
S. \V. by S., the sails were partly up, and we were 
plunging through the waves and foam in a magnifi- 
cent manner. The broken surface of the sea, as it 
lashed the sides of the ship, afforded me a fine oppor- 
tunity to observe the sparkling and phosphorescence 
of the ocean, which I continued to do for half an 
hour. The appearance was quite unlike that observ- 
ed on the morning of the 5th day of my passage out. 
The light, in that case, seemed to be a uniform glow 
from the whole surface of the wave ; but in the pres- 
ent case, it consists principally of sparks, like those 
emitted by millions of fire-flies. The spark, or flash, 
appeared on the surface of the water ; and from it a 
luminous point seemed to sink down into the water, 
illuminating it to some distance around, as it descend- 
ed.* About 3, I retired to the cabin, where I lounged 
till daylight. While the waves were running very 



*The phosphorescence and sparkling of the ocean, are now believed 
to result from two general causes — one, the emission of light by very 
minute animals — and the other, from the decomposition of particles of 
organic matter. Both these causes abound most in the tropical seas, 
and hence these luminous appearances are far more frequent there thaa 
iu higher and colder latitudes. Mr. Darwin, who devoted much atten- 
tion to this subject, during his voyage in the Beagle around the world, 
thinks that the phosphorescence of the ocean has a very intimate rela- 
tion to the electrical state of the atmosphere. See his Voyage of a 
A'aturalut, vol. 1, p. 20?. 



120 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

high, this morning, their real height became a subject 
of some discussion. At first, there appeared much 
diversity of opinion ; but after watching them for 
some time, and making the best estimates we could 
from occular data, the general conclusion arrived at 
was, that the perpendicular height, of a straight line 
drawn from crest to crest, of two of the highest waves, 
would be about 16 feet above the bottom of the de- 
pression between them, or only 8 feet above the mean 
level of the sea. It may seem surprising that I should 
speak of the eea running high, when the waves are 
raised only 8 feet above the mean level of the ocean, 
especially as we are accustomed to read in narratives 
of voyages, of waves running as high as the top of 
the ship's mast — of swells mountain high, &c. But 
such statements, though erroneous, may be honestly 
founded on appearances. When the sea is running 
very high, the ship may frequently be in a position in 
which, to a person on board, an approaching wave may 
actually appear to be higher than the ship's mast, and 
a distant swell may have no slight resemblance to a 
mountain. But they are so only in appearance, and 
the appearance is occasioned, principally, by the incli- 
nation of the plane of the ship's deck to the plane of 
the horizon, or general sea-level. 

The sun has been visible some small part ©f the 
day, and sufficiently so at noon to enable the captain to 
get an observation. Our longitude, at that time, was 
about 31°. Passed one sail to-day, some distance to 
the north of us, bound eastward. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 121 



Aucust 6. Wednesday. — Went on deck at half- 
past 2, in the morning, and spent some time in watch- 
ing the scintilations of the agitated waters. Appear- 
ances very similar to those noticed yesterday morning. 
It was cloudy, with some rain, the wind strong from 
S. S. E., the sea running high, and the ship pitching 
and tumbling badly. I retired again to my berth, and 
slept till 5, when I found that the wind had somewhat 
abated, and that the sea was more calm. At 7 J A. M. , 
a small portion of a rainbow was seen in the west. At 
this time, the barometer was the lowest that it has 
been at any time since we left Cowes, being 29.40 in. 
Daring the forenoon, we had frequent rain-squalls from 
the N. E. About noon, the wind came round to N. 
by W. and increased in violence till nearly night, lash- 
ing the sea into a violent ferment and dashing the 
spray over the upper deck to such a degree that no 
one could comfortably remain there. We have j)ass- 
ed two sails to-day, one to the north of us and the 
other to the southward; and I was told that several 
black fishes showed themselves about noon, but I did 
not happen to be on deck to see them. My friend 
Holabird informs me that large numbers of them were 
seen, during their passage out in the Humboldt. 

We have had a rainbow in the morning, two days 
in succession, and the squally weather, yesterday and 
to-day, has been such as to verify the old proverb — 

" A rainbow in the morning, 
Is the sailor's warning." 

I can hardly recollect a case, in which a rainbow in 

11* 



122 JOURNAL OP A TRIP TO PARIS, 

the morning, cither on sea or land, was not followed 
by a squally day. 

In the early part of the day, a small whirlwind, or 
water spout, passed by near the ship, whirling the 
spray upwards towards the clouds, but it was not felt 
on board the ship. 1 am told that these whirlwinds 
will sometimes cross a ship, with their force concen- 
trated within so narrow limits, as to lift a mast, with 
its sails, out of its place, without disturbing any thing 
else. Such statements, if true, must constitute strong 
props of Mr. Espy's vortex theory of storms. The 
wind is somewhat abated this morning, but the sea 
continues greatly agitated. 

August 7. Thursday. — The weather, this morning, 
was still bwery and disagreeable, but the force of the 
wind and the turbulence of the sea, were very much 
abated. The thermometer, at sunrise, in the shade, stood 
at 5S^. Yesterday morning, it was at 60 Q . During 
most of the day, the horizon has been clear and well 
defined, and the sea tolerably calm. But just before 
night, a low bank of dense fog was seen extending for 
a great distance along the horizon in the south-west, 
strongly resembling distant land ; but instead of being 
land, 1 learn that it is only an indication that we are 
about entering upon the cold and dreary banks of New- 
foundland. We have had, to-nigh f, another most 
splendid sunset ; I am not sure that I ever saw a more 
beautiful one, even at Burlington, so renowned for its 
beautiful sunsets. It seemed as though it were hardly 
possible to have a more perfect display of bright and 
varied colors, lovely tints and delicate shades, than was 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 123 

exhibited in the '.vest at the moment the sun was dis- 
appearing below the surface of the ocean. The effect 
of refraction in shortening the sun's vertical diameter, 
was very perceptible, as was also the difference of cur- 
viture in the arcs bounding the upper and lower mar- 
gins of the sun ; but the distortion of the sun's disc 
was trifling, compared with that I witnessed on the 
Grand Bank, in my passage out. The weather is now 
favorable, and our progress good. 

August 8- Friday. — It was 5 o'clock when I went 
on deck, this morning. Found the weather foggy and 
chilly, the thermometer standing, in the shade, at 48 Q . 
Before noon, the fog had mostly disappeared, and the 
sea had become more calm and smooth than I had be- 
fore seen it at any time during my passage out and so 
far back. At noon, we were on the Grand Banks, be- 
ing in lat. 47^, and long. 49 Q , 4 degress further north 
than we crossed the Banks in our passage out. Passed 
one sail to the south of us, headed east, the only one 
seen in two days. Sun-fishes, or jelly-fishes, are seen 
in considerable numbers since we came upon the Banks, 
and floating branches of sea-weed are frequently seen. 
Passed, also, this afternoon, a large school of porpoises. 
The air has been uncomfortably cool on deck during 
the day, but otherwise the weather has been remarka- 
bly calm and pleasant. The temperature, to-night, 
both of the water and the air, is about 56°. The wind 
seems to be rising, this evening, and appearances indi- 
cate an approaching storm. We are now nine days 
out from Cowes, and are in about the same longitude 
as when four days out from New York, but are in lati- 
tude about 4° further north. 



124 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

AVhen the weather is favorable, the passengers usu- 
ally amuse themselves on deck, during the day. and 
pass the evening in the great dining-saloon, either read- 
ing or playing whist. While I am now writing, alone 
in my state-room, a large part of the passengers are in 
the saloon, over my head, around the card-tables ; and 
by their boisterous mirth, one might conjecture that 
they were endeavoring to drown their cares in Cham- 
pagne. I now occupy a single state-room alone, one 
having been vacated by its occupant having taken a 
berth on deck on account of sea-sickness. I was very 
glad to leave my former one, on account of my chum 
indulging a little too freely in Champagne, and other 
strong drinks, to be at all times an agreeable compan- 
ion. 

Aug. 9. Saturday. — I begin this day's journal, with 
some account of an occurrence, which I do not wish to 
have repeated, and the thought of which almost makes 
me shudder. Understanding that the steamers some 
times passed within sight of Cape Race, the southern 
point of Newfoundland, and knowing that we were ap- 
proaching the neighborhood of that island, I mentioned 
to one of the mates last evening, that I would like to be 
informed of it, if we should chance to come in sight of 
land. He replied that, on account of the density of the 
fog, we should not, probably, see land at all, and, if Ave 
did, we should not come in sight of it before 4 or 5 
o'clock, next morning. I retired to my berth about 10, 
and slept very soundly till midnight, when I awoke 
and lay awake for some time ; but finally got into a 
drowse, from which I was suddenly awakened at half 
past one, A. M., by a violent concussion of the ship and 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 125 

the stopping of the engine, which were immediately fol- 
lowed by a careening of the ship, as though it would 
roll entirely over upon its side. I felt it to be necessary 
to seize hold upon the side of my berth, to prevent being 
rolled out. Immediately I perceived that, there was 
much noise and bustle in all parts of the ship, and, 
knowing something must be wrong, I hastened on my 
clothes, and was leaving my state-room to go on deck, 
when I met my friend Holabird, who, fearing I was not 
aware of our critical situation, had kindly come down 
to let me know that, we had struck upon Cape Race. I 
hastened upon deck, and found our ship with her star- 
board side towards a long line of precipitous rocks, ris- 
ing abruptly out of the ocean, and but a few rods from 
us. But by this time, the engine was again in motion, 
and we were now moving forward, nearly parallel to 
the cliff ; and assurances that the ship had sustained no 
injury, soon relieved us from our great anxiety. 

It appeared that, at the time of the occurrence above 
mentioned, in addition to the usual watch, the captain 
and one of the mates were on deck ; but that the rocks 
were not discovered, till the ship was close upon them, 
and headed almost directly towards them. Upon seeing 
the danger, the captain instantly gave the signal to stop 
the engine and port the helm, by which the bow of the 
ship was thrown round to the larboard, presenting the 
starboard side to the shore, towards which it continued 
to approach by the momentum previously acquired, till 
the keel struck the bottom ; bat, the motion being side- 
wise, the momentum was not expended on the point of 
contact, but in causing the ship to careen, or roll towards 
the shore. This sudden bringing round the ship's side 



126 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

towards the rocks, was, probably, the means of saving 
it, and all on board, from destruction. Had it struck in 
the direction in which it was previously moving, it 
would, in all probability, have been wrecked, and 
whether any on board would, in that case, have reached 
the shore, is quite uncertain.* The life-boats on board 
were not sufficient to carry one half of the passengers 
and crew, and the scramble for places might have ren- 
dered them useless ; and if they had been successfully 
filled and got clear of the sinking ship, there would be 
no certainty that a landing could be effected, on account 
of the surf and precipitous nature of the shore. And in 
case a landing was effected, the difficulties would not 



* The captain was not disposed to admit that the ship did actually 
strike the bottom at all. He pronounced the shock and careening of the 
ship, to be the effect of stopping the engine suddenly, and of bringing 
round the helm forcibly, at the same time, in order to change the 
■hip's course. But he appeared to be alone in that opinion. All else on 
board were very sure that she strue'.; and among them were several old 
and experienced sea-captains. 

The arc of the great circle, which marks the shortest distance, along 
the surface of the globe, between New York and Cowcs, passes oxer the 
south part of Newfoundland, and, at proper seasons of the year, naviga- 
tors endeavor to shorten their voyage, by keeping as close as practicab 
to this arc. Consequently, they endeavor to pass as near to Cape Race, 
as is consistent with a due regird to safety. Tut the almost perpetual 
cloudiness and fogs, and the many currents in that part of the ocean, 
render it impossible to know, at all times, the ship's true place. At the 
time of our peril, the Humboldt was evidently several hours before her 
reckoning. Bat, to exculpate Capt. L. from blame, in this catce, 1 would 
remark that, the Humboldt's compass traversed so badly, that little con- 
fidence could be placed in it, and that for some time previous to reaching 
Cape Race, the weather had been so cloudy and foggy, as to render ob- 
servations for time and place impracticable. 



LONDON AND THE GHEAT EXHIBITION. 127 



be over; the region was cold, barren and uninhabited, 
and the distance to the nearest settlement, many miles. 

In my passage outward and back, I haA r e had occa- 
sion, frequently, to reflect upon the scanty provision 
made on our ships, for the safety of those on board, in 
case of accident, and the occurrence of this morning, is 
well calculated to revive the reflection. Supposing one 
of these ships strike on a rock, an iceberg, or another 
ship, or be on fire, and it is necessary to abandon her, 
and there be life-boats, sufficient to carry only one half 
on board, there would be an immediate rush to these 
boats, and, each consulting only his own safety, there 
would be such a struggle for place, that the boats would 
be capsized or swamped, and all would, probably, per- 
ish. On the other hand, if it were known that the safety 
boats were sufficient to receive every soul on board, this 
scramble for place would not occur, and the probability 
of all being saved, would be very much greater, than 
that any would escape, in a case like the former. It 
appears to me that every ocean steamer had ought to be 
obliged, by law, to carry a sufficient number of life-boats, 
to receive on board them, every soul in the ship, in case 
of accident. The metalic life-boats are now made so 
light that their weight can form no objection, and to 
prevent their occupying too much room on deck, they 
might be nested into one another, like measures. 

Passed an ocean steamer, supposed to be one of the 
Cunard line, bound eastward, and several sailing ves- 
sels, to-day. 

August 10. Sunday. — Morning foggy and rainy, but 
the sea quite tranquil. Before noon it cleared away, 
and the weather became quite pleasant and comfortable, 



128 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

the temperature having become warmer and the air drier 
than it had been for a long time, and it was generally 
remarked that, the feeling of the air and the aspect of 
the heavens, had become decidedly American. 

Towards noon, Capt. Lines informed me that, there 
had been a consultation among the passengers, and that 
they were generally desirous of having religious services 
on board, and had requested him to invite me to offi- 
ciate. Knowing that our exposure to danger and our 
providential escape, yesterday morning, had produced 
very serious impressions upon the minds of many on 
board, I consented, and half past 1, P. 3VL, was appointed 
as the time for the services to commence. 

At the time appointed, a very large proportion of 
those on board, assembled in the dining saloon, where 
I read the afternoon services for the eighth Sunday after 
Trinity, with the exception of the substitution of the 
107th Psalm, for the Psalms for the day. and the addi- 
tion of the following collect, which I had endeavored to 
adapt to the occasion : 

COLLECT. 

Most gracious Lord, whose mercies are over all thy works, we praise 
and magnify thy glorious name, that thou hast been pleased to conduct 
this ship and all on board, thus far in safety through the perils of the 
great deep. Make us duly sensible of thy merciful providence towards 
us, when brought, apparently, upon the bi-ink of destruction, thou 
didst snatch us from the jaws of death, and didst remove from us the 
iearfulness and anxiety with which we had been so suddenly overwhelmed. 
Continue to us, Lord, thy gracious guidance and protection during 
the remainder of our voyage, and when thou hast brought us in safety 
to the h iven where we would be, enable us to express our thaukfulness, 
by a holy trust in thy providence, and a willing obedience to all thy laws, 
through Jesus Christ, our Redeemer. Amen. 

My sermon was founded on the 18th versa of the 4th 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 129 



chapter of the second epistle to the Corinthians. In it I 
attempted a comparison between the mariner upon the 
ocean, and the Christian upon the voyage of life, and 
to show that both proceeded by faith, rather than sight; 
that both were looking at objects unseen, except by faith 
■ — the mariner to the port to which he is bound, and the 
christian to the haven of eternal rest. The audience 
was very attentive, and though few conld take an audi- 
ble part iii the services, for want of prayer books, (a 
want, on this ship which I hope our Prayer Book Socie- 
ties will soon supply,) they appeared generally to be 
much interested in them. 

The weather, since 10 o'clock this morning, has been 
very fine, and the monotony of the ocean has been re- 
lieved by the sight of a large number of sail, moving in 
different directions. About sunset, we passed through 
the largest school of Porpoises that I have ever yet seen. 
The sea seemed to be literally alive with them, for miles 
around. They were leaping out of the water, skipping 
along the surface and cutting all manner of copers. At 
one time I noticed several of them just below the surface 
of the water, by the side of the ship, swimming the 
same way the ship was running, as if in a race with it, 
and, although the ship was running at the rate of 11 
miles an hour, they seemed easily to keep pace with it. 
There must have been, at least, a thousand Porpoises in 
sight from the ship ; and they were accompanied, as 
usual, by a large number of Petrels and Gullsj Among 
the Petrels there seemed to be many belonging to a 
larger species than those I had usually seen. The sun- 
set to-night was very beautiful, resembling one of our 

finest sun-sets at Burlmslon. As the sun was sinking 
12 



130 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



beneath the ocean in the west, the full-orbed moon was 
at the same time, rising in the east, forming altogether, 
a most grand and interesting spectacle. To-night, it is 
said, we shall pass Halifax, in Nova Scotia. 

August 11. Monday. — Rose about 5, went on deck, 
and found the morning delightful, and the prospect 
cheered by the presence of a large number of fishing 
vessels. By the help of his glass, the Captain was able 
to enumerate 11 sail, in one small section of the horizon 
in the north west, while many others were in sight, in 
other directions. These fishing vessels are said to be 
lying up St. George's Bank. Have noticed, to-day, 
much sea- weed floating in the ocean ; but, as the deck is 
about 20 feet above the surface of the water, I was una- 
ble to secure any specimens of it. About 3 P. M., I 
noticed, what appeared to me like a long line of break- 
ers, crossing our course at some distance ahead. The 
sea beyond, appeared in great commotion, and to be 
higher than nearer the ship. We soon entered upon 
these agitated waters, but found no increase of wind, 
and were told that the phenomenon was occasioned by 
the tide running northwardly, over the shoals towards 
the bay of Fundy. About sun-set, a steamer was seen 
some 15 miles to the south-east of us, headed towards 
New- York, and it is supposed to be the Africa, which 
was to leave Liverpool on the 2d inst. We have had 
another beautiful sun-setting and moon-rising, and the 
sea is now quite calm, but the fogs seem to be gathering 
around us. 

August 12. Tuesday. — Was awakened a little after 
midnight by the stopping of the engine, and arose and 
went on deck to learn the cause, when I was told it was 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 131 



for the purpose of taking soundings, we being then on 
Nantucket shoals. The same operation was repeated 
several times before morning, by which our progress was 
much hindered; but between 4 and 5 A. M., we took a 
pilot on board, to conduct the ship into ^Sew York, 
which we hoped to reach in the evening. About 10 
A, M., a steamer could be discerned in the distance 
ahead of us, supposed to be the same seen last night, 
and to have passed us during our delay on the shoals. 
Came in sight of Long Island, about 1 P. M. Ther- 
mometer in the shade 81°. This morning, a large shark 
was seen over the side of the ship : was not on deck at 
the time. 

Have passed many sail to-day, and during the after- 
noon had a good view of the light-house at Fire Island, 
a locality rendered memorable by the shipwreck, in 
which the gifted Countess D'Ossili (Miss Fuller,) lost 
her life, and the statue of John C. Calhoun was sunk. 
About the same time, Neversink. in New Jersey, hove 
in sight. We passed Sandy Hook, just as the full-orbed 
moon was rising, red as blood, from the bosom of the 
ocean, and came in sight of the numerous lights, which 
were just beginning to twinkle along the Jersey shore. 
We reached the quarantine ground about 9 in the eve- 
ning, where we were detained an hour, before we could 
get a physician on board, and have permission to pro- 
ceed. At length we were again underway, and at 11 
o'clock, the Humboldt was safely moored at her pier, 
No. 4. North River, Many of the passengers are going 
on shore, at this late hour, but I have concluded to 
remain on board till morning. 

Having shown Capt. Lines my abstract of the Log of 



132 



JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



the Steamship Franklin, during our passage out, {see 
page 28 7 ) he, to-day, very generously furnished me with 
the following abstract of his own Log-book, during our 
present voyage. 



Cowes to 



ABSTRACT LOG. 
New York — Steam Ship Humboldt. 

D. LIKES, COMMANDER. 



Date 


Latitude 


Long. : Dist. 


'1 her mo. 


Barcm. 


Rotations i oal. 


Noon. 


Not 


•th. | 


West. [Run. 

1 


Air. 


Wat'r 


Inches. 


Engine. 


Tons. 


July 31 


49° 


50' 1 


4* 


30' 140 


68^ 


62° 


29,80 


9,077 


44 


Aug. 1 


49 


50 


9 


47 ! 204 


66 


62 


29,80 


14,076 


59 


t( 


49 


50 


14 


37 186 


66 


62 


29,50 


11,783 


50 


" 3 


49 


50 


19 


35 190 


67 


63 


29,70 


11,971 


51 


" 4 


49 


27 


25 


30 230 


64 


63 


29,90 


15,410 


69 


" 5 


49 


5 31 


30 238 


67 


63 


29,60 


15,730 


63 


" 6 


48 


40 37 


218 


62 


62 


29,40 


15,460 


69 


" 7 


48 


21 


43 


5 245 


61 


61 


29,70 


16,057 


64 


'< 8 


47 


19 


49 


20 260 


m 


52 


30,00 


18,783 


62 


« 9 


45 


55 


55 


S3 265 


60 


56 


29,90 


18,708 


64 


« 10 


44 


18 


61 


15 256 


63 


60 


29,50 


] 8,622 


55 


» 11 


42 


9 


66 


30 256 


66 


63 


29,80 


19,445 


63 


« 12 


40 


37 72 


261 


m 


66 


29,90 


19,334 


66 


P. M. 


40 


42' 74 


2 12C 




i 




8,350 


t 29 


1 




3068 




212,806 808 



The Humboldt left Cowes, at 10 o'clock in the eve- 
ning of the 30th of July, and arrived at New York at 
11 o'clock on the evening of the 12th of August. Hence, 
allowing five hours for difference of longitude, the total 
time from Cowes to New York, was 13 days and 6 
hours — 10 hours longer than my passage out from New 
York to Cowes, in the Franklin. 

In the following Chart, the dotted line marks the 
Franklin's passage out, and the continuous line the 
Humboldt's passage back. The number show the ship's 
position at noon, on the successive days of each voyage. 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 133 



CHART — Routes of the Steam-Ships Franklin and Hdmeoldt. 




• . .-' : " ^ ' : •* 









■ .■/,■■■■■.■ ■■'^ ^'■.■;:' 





August 13. Wednesday. — After the inspection of my 
baggage by the Custom House officer, I had it transfer- 
red to the Steamer Troy, which was to leave for Troy 
in the evening, and then spent the day in the city. I 
could see very much in New- York, which contrasted 
favorably with what I had seen in Paris and London ; 
but, in one thing, that of cleanliness, I was sorry to no- 
tice that she fell far behind those old foreign cities. Be- 
tween 5 and 6 P. M., I came on board the Troy, which 
left New- York a little after 6. The day has been ex- 
ceedingly warm, and the heat more oppressive than at 
any time since I left Burlington. 

August 14. Thursday. — Was awakened at 3 A. M., 
by the stopping of the engine. Went on deck and found 
the boat stuck in the mud, some 20 miles below Albany. 
We got underway again, after a delay of about an hour, 
and reached Troy a little after 5. Left, in the cars for 
Whitehall, at (5, went on board the Steamer United 
States, Capt. Davis, at Whitehall, at 9, A. M., and ar- 
rived at Burlington at 4, P. M., having been absent 11 
weeks and 2 days, of which 2 weeks were spent in Paris 
and 5 in London, and having travelled about 7500 miles. 

And now I close my journal ; grateful te those, whose 
liberality lias enabled me to see and enjoy so much, and 
to that God, who has watched over, protected and re- 
turned me in safety and improved health to my dear 
familv. and my many kind friends. 

12* 



131 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



NOTES. 



LONDON. 

Before taking my final leave of London, I had intended 
to enter on my journal, some general observations re- 
specting that wonderful metropolis. But as I found no 
time to carry out that intention, I will here append a 
few remarks. 

London as it now exists, comprises what were, an- 
ciently, the city of London and its liberties, the city of 
Westminster, the Tower hamlets, and the boroughs of 
Finsbury, Marylebone, Southwark and Lambeth, with 
their respective suburbs; besides several villages in 
Middlesex and Surry. All these, though originally dis- 
tinct, are now swallowed up in London, the great Me- 
tropolis of the British Empire. 

The territory occupied by London as it is, is oval, or 
egg-shaped. Its longest diameter is from east to west — 
from Bow to Hammersmith, and measures 11 miles. Its 
width from north to south — from Hollo way to Stockwell, 
is 6 miles. Its circumference, exceeds 30 miles, and its 
area, including the river, is about 40 square miles. The 
width of the Thames at London Bridge, is 310 yards, 
at Waterloo Bridge 400, and about the same at the 
Tunnel. The length of the Thames within the Me- 
tropolis, is 7 miles, and it is crossed by 7 bridges, two 
of which are iron, and the others stone. The sweep of 
the tide at London Bridge is 19 feet, and the tide flows 
up the Thames 15 miles above that Bridge. No large 
shipping is seen above London Bridge, but the river be- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 135 

low, for three or four miles, and all the extensive col- 
lateral docks, are filled with ships. 

The statistics of London are such as to appear almost 
incredible, even to a person who has seen it. It is stated 
that it contains more than 80 parks and squares, more 
than 10,000 streets, lanes and courts, 250,000 houses, 
and 2,100,000 inhabitants, besides, 100,000 strangers. 
Of these 180,000 houses and 1,500,000 inhabitants are 
on the north side of the river, and 70,000 houses and 
700,000 inhabitants, are on the south side. 

The places of public worship, in London, amount, to 
upwards of 750. Of these, 340 are Episcopal churches 
or chapels, 20 belong to the Roman Catholics, 14 to for- 
eign Protestants, 370 to different Protestant dissenters ; 
and there are 8 Jewish synagogues. St. Paul's Cathe- 
dral and Westminster Abbey, the two most interesting 
religious edifices, have been mentioned in my journal. 

The royal palaces and mansions of the nobility in and 
about London, are very numerous, and some of them 
very large and elegant. Buckingham Palace, situated 
at the west end of St. James' Park, and south of Green 
Park, is the present town residence of Her Majesty, 
Queen Victoria, and is a very large and imposing mass 
of buildings. Its situation is retired, airy and delightful. 

The new Houses of Parliament, when completed, will 
constitute the largest structure in London, the Crystal 
Palace only excepted. It presents a noble eastern front- 
age, towards the river of nearly 1000 feet in length, and 
covers an area of nine acres. The height of its great 
tower is to be 346 feet. Beside the splendid rooms 
of the two houses of Parliament, the number of official 
residences, offices, committee-rooms, courts, lobbies, 



JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



corridors, dining and washing-rooms, &c, is astonish- 
ingly great. Its cubic contents exceed 15,000,000 feet, 
being greater, by one half, than St. Paul's. It contains 
nearly 600 distinct apartments, among which is to be 
a chapel for divine worship. The old houses of Parlia- 
ment were destroyed by fire, October 15, 1834, and 
these were commenced in 1840. The best view of them 
is from the river, or rather, from the opposite bank, 
between Westminster bridge and Lambeth Palace. 

London is now, not merely the largest city in the 
known world, but it exceeds in opulence, splendor and 
luxury, (perhaps in misery,) all that ever was recorded 
of any city. It may safsly be affirmed to be the largest 
congregate mass of human life, arts, science, wealth, 
power and architectural splendor, which exists, or ever 
has existed within the known annals of mankind. It 
contains, upon a territory about the size of a township 
seven miles square, a population more than six times as 
great as that of the whole State of Vermont, or equal 
to 350 such villages as Burlington. 

London, though abounding in parks and palaces and 
theatres — though abounding in religious, literary and 
scientific establishments, is yet, emphatically a business 
place. It is the great central manufactory and ware- 
house of the world. Every morning, hundreds — yea, 
thousands of the lofty chimnies of her factories, are seen 
belching forth volumes of black smoke, and before noon, 
the heavens are usually obscured, and the city envelop- 
ed in a dark, sooty cloud. This smoke condenses upon 
the buildings and other objects, giving the whole city a 
dirty and dingy aspect. The Portland and most other 
kinds of stone, used in building, is naturally of a light 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 137 



cream color, or nearly white, but here, it soon becomes 
blackened and stained, giving to the finest and most ex- 
pensive building a most unsightly aspect. 

The fogs, and smoke, and dust, and noise of London 
are subjects of very general remark, and for very good 
reasons with regard to most of them. But the burden 
of these is confined chiefly to the line of the great 
thoroughfares along the river. Back from the river, in 
the higher and newer parts of the city, the annoyance 
from these causes, is comparatively trifling. Along 
Fleet street, the Strand and Piccadilly street, during the 
continuance of the Exhibition, there were, from 8 in the 
morning till 10 at night, two continuous streams of om- 
nibuses and other carriages, one stream running to, and 
the other from the Crystal Palace ; and the rattle and 
thunder of so many heavy carriages, caused the very 
earth to tremble. These carriages succeeded each other 
so closely, that a person was often obliged to wait for a 
considerable time before he could find sufnicient space 
between them, to allow him to cross the street. In the 
United States, carriages are obliged, or at least, are ex- 
pected, to keep the right hand side of the way in pass- 
ing other carriages moving in an opposite direction. But 
the reverse of this is the case here. Here all carriages 
are obliged to keep the left hand side, and. effectually to 
enforce the observance of this rule, policemen were sta- 
tioned, at short distances, all along the centre of Picca- 
dilly street, who did not allow a carriage to pass them 
in violation of it. 

The Police regulations are, probably, not surpassed 
by those of any other city in the world. The average 
amount of police force, is about 5000, but on account of 



138 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 

the great influx of foreigners to the Exhibition, it has 
been much increased this year. The policemen are dis- 
tinguished by a modest blue uniform coat, with their let- 
ter and number marked upon its standing collar. They 
are distributed over the whole city, and are, therefore, 
every where at hand, and always ready to answer any 
inquiries, or to guide you to any place you may wish 
to find. During my five weeks' stay in London, I 
never knew, or heard of any one, making inquiries of a 
policeman, whose application was not kindly received 
and attended to : and I have frequently seen them put 
themselves to considerable trouble, to show people on 
their way. 

In the midst of the vast throngs in the streets of Lon- 
don, I noticed very little of drunkenness, quarreling, or 
disorder of any kind. Nearly ^11 seemed intent solely 
upon their own pursuits, showing little disposition to 
notice or intermeddle in the affairs of others. I do not 
recollect to have noticed more than one drunken man 
who manifested any disposition to produce disturbance 
in the streets, and he was soon taken in charge by the 
police. 

In judging of the comparative advantages of London 
and Paris, as places of residence, persons will be influ- 
enced very much by their tastes, habits and objects. 
The climate of Paris is undoubtedly most pleasant. It 
has less fog and smoke, and the streets, generally, are 
cleaner. But in parks and open squares, the newer parts 
of London have the advantage over Paris. In the 
northern and western parts of London, the streets are, 
for the most part, straight, broad, well paved, clean and 
airy, and about one eighth part of the whole territory is 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 139 



reserved for public squares. These squares are, in many 
cases, inclosed by handsome iron fences, and within, are 
planted with flowers, shrubs and shade trees, forming 
cool and delightful walks, during the hot weather : and 
some of them are furnished with the additional luxury 
of refreshing fountains. 

St. Paul's, in London, is in latitude 51° 32', and in 
longitude 6 J 37' ' west from Greenwich Observatory. 
The following are the distances from London to impor- 
tant places, viz : 

To Windsor 20 To Amsterdam - 190 

" Oxford - - -56 " Berlin - - - 540 
" Southampton - 60 " Copenhagen - 610 



St, Petersburgh - 1 140 



Bristol - - - 118 

Birmingham - 112 " Vienna - _ 820 
York - - - 19G « Constantinople - 1660 

950 
860 

Dublin - - 838 " Lisbon - - 850 
Paris - - - 225 " New York - - 3200 



Liverpool - - 201 " Borne 
Edinburgh - - 395 " Madrid 



THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 

The idea of a Grand Exhibition of the Works of In- 
dustry of all Nations, seems to have originated with 
Prince Albert, and by him, seconded by the efforts of 
the Society of Arts, to have been embodied into a reality. 
Mainly through his instrumentality, a Royal Warrant 
was granted, Jan. 3, 1850, appointing a Board of Com- 
missioners to consider the matter, and on the loth of 
August following, the Commission was incorporated by 
a Royal Charter. Contributions and subscriptions were 
then sought, and also, designs and plans of a building 



140 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



suitable to serve the purposes of such an Exhibition. 
At length after much perplexity and delay, a plan and 
estimate were submitted by Mr. Paxton, then Head Gar- 
dener at Chatworth, which were adopted by the Com- 
mission, and a contract was made with Messrs. Fox and 
Henderson, for the erection of the Crystal Palace. The 
Commission were to pay £76,000 for the construction of 
the building, and the materials were to belong to the 
contractors, and be removed by them at the close of the 
Exhibition; but, if the Commission should conclude, 
permanently, to retain the building, they could do it, by 
the payment of £150,000 to the contractors. The 
building was to be in readiness for the opening of the 
Exhibition on the 1st day of May, 1851. 

The Crystal Palace is situated in Hyde Park, and 
very near the south side. It is built in the form of a 
parallelogram and is made entirely of glass and iron, 
excepting a ceiling of boards around the base, for the 
convenience of hanging up articles for exhibition, and 
where glass would be in great danger of being broken. 
The lower floor is of trellis-boards, laid upon sleepers, 
with open spaces between the boards about an inch wide. 
The gallery floors are without openings. 

The length of the building is 1848 feet — a number 
less, by 3 than 1851, the date of the Exhibition. The 
width of the building is 408 feet, with an addition on 
the north side of 936 feet and 48 wide. The height of 
the main building is 76 feet, but nearly midway it is 
crossed by a transept with a semi-circular roof, made 
108 feet high, for the purpose of inclosing a group of 
trees. It also serves to improve the appearance of the 
building. The main parallelogram is formed, longitu- 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 141 

dinally, into 11 divisions, which are, alternately, 24 and 
48 feet wide, with the exception of the great central 
walk, or nave, which is 72 feet wide. The entire area 
of the ground floor is 798,912 square feet, or a little over 
18 acres. The building is in three lofts, one behind 
another, so that the ends show as a pyramid of three 
steps, as may be seen by the cut introduced as a frontis- 
piece to this volume. 

The columns are of iron, cast hollow, and, for the 
most part, stand 24 feet apart each way. The number 
of columns is stated to be 3230. The number of cast-iron 
girders is 2244, for supporting the galleries and roofs, 
with 1128 intermediate bearers, besides 358 wrought- 
iron trusses. The roof, which consists of glass and iron 
is thrown into ridges and vallies, 8 feet across, and run- 
ning transversely ; and these vallies are directed to the 
heads of the several columns, so that the water which 
falls on the various sections of the roof, is conveyed im- 
mediately into the heads of the hollow columns, and 
through them to the earth beneath. The length of all 
these gutters is 44 miles. There are in the building, more 
than 200 miles of sash bars, and 900,000 superficial feet 
of glass. The entrances to the building are at the south 
end of the transept, and at the east and west end of the 
main building. There are several other places of exit 
along the sides of the building. 

The Crystal Palace being completed, and the neces- 
sary arrangements made, the Great Exhibition was 
opened with much form and ceremony, on the 1st day 
of May, 1851. The principal exercises on the occasion 
were : An Address to the Queen, from the Royal Com- 
mission, read by His Royal Highness, Prince Albert: 

13 



m JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 



Her Majesty's Reply; and a Prayer by the Archbishop 

of Canterbury. From this time, up to the final close of 

the Exhibition, on the 15th of October, the Palace was 

continually thronged with visitants, varying from 

25,000 to 80,000, daily. The price of admission to the 

Exhibition, varied at the different stages of it, and on 

different days of the week. At the opening, season 

tickets Were sold for very high prices ; but, during most 

of the time, the price of admission was Is. on Mondays, 

Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. On Fridays 

it was 2s. U 7 and on Saturdays 5s. All exhibitors were 

furnished with free tickets. 

As a general rule, articles from each of the different 
countries, occupied a separate department of the build- 
ing. As might have been expected, Great Britain and 
her dependencies, furnished about one half of the arti- 
cles exhibited, and occupied the whole of the building 
west of the transept. The part occupied by the United 
States was at the east end. Between this and the tran- 
sept, were arranged, in order, the productions of other 
coimtries-as Russia, the German States, Austria, Bel- 
gium, France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Egypt, Turkey, 
Greece, Persia, Switzerland, China, Brazil and Tunis. 
The transept and nave of the Palace were occupied by 
fountains, models of cities, buildings and bridges, and a 
very great variety of choice specimens of statuary. At 
the centre of the crossing of the transept and nave was 
a beautiful fountain, 10 or 12 feet high, made entirely of 
olass, and called the crystal fountain. There were sev- 
eral other fountains playing in different parts ot the 
building. For the proper examination of the articles 
and the award of prizes, they were divided into 31 



LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 143 



classes, according td their nature, and the same number 
of juries appointed. Each of these consisted of an equal 
number of British and foreign jurors, and each had its 
chairman ; and the chairmen of the several juries con- 
stituted the. Council. The awards were two kinds of 
Medals, called the Council Medals and the Prize Medals. 
As a general thing, the Council Medals were intended 
to denote genius, contrivance, or mental superiority of 
some kind, while excellency of material, workmanship, 
product &c, were: rewarded by Prize Medals. The 
whole number of exhibitors of articles was about 17,000, 
and the whole number of articles submitted to the ex- 
amination of the juries, exceeded 1,000,000. The whole 
number of Medals awarded was 3088, Of these 170 
were Council Medals and 2918 Prize Medals. Four 
Council Medals and 94 Prize Medals, (making 98 in all.) 
were awarded to exhibitors from the United States, and 
the whole number of exhibitors from the United States 
was 534. Hence it appears, that the United States re- 
ceived 7 medals more than their proportion, according 
to the number of exhibitors. Fourteen articles were 
sent from Vermont, and 3 Prize Medals were awarded 
to contributors from this State. 

The close of the Exhibition, on the 15th of October, 
was attended with much less display and ceremony 
than its opening, on the 1st day of May. The chief 
exercises Were : The reading of the reports of the Ju- 
ries, by Viscount Canning; Prince Albert's reply; 
Prayer by the Bishop of London ; and Music by the 
Choir, 



INDEX 



Abbey, Westminster, 92. Green House, 10. 

100, 111. jGulls,17. 

^cultural Society ,41. \H*lle auxVms, 08. 
Airy, Professor, 81, H*™**' ' 3 ' 
/7rr de Triomphe de Havre, 29, Ob. 
* -JBrilf, SB. Henry VIL's Chapel 10( 

Archbishop of Canter- Horticultural Soo., 43. 

h r v 88 \ Hotel desEtrangers, 31 

J^ttne Tower," » 1^^,46, 

103 J Hypopotamus, 00. 

Ball to the Queen, 85. Icebergs, 15. 

JJe/uga Zeucas, 8b. £r Pf*™\„ planUi 30 Refraction, Effectof, 14 
Bibliotheque du Roy, Ujardt n-de s-J Ian*., o-, ^.^ ^ 

Botanical Gardens, 40 08 41 54. L£^ of T 4C> 

British Association, 68. Jewel House, 11*. 24 _ 

Cedar of Lebanon 40. Lan^etb 88 Sea J ickness , 12, 117. 

C»— J- ** arS ' g- l Llb ? ry ' Na^onal? 45 Sedgwick , Professor, 7« 
Champ S -Elysees,te.J ^ Hagg j^nse- Skip-Jacks, l3 . 



Phosphorescence of the 
Sea, 13, 119, 121. • 

Place de la Concorde, 51 

Plain Breakfast, 59. 

Porpoises, 1G, 18. 117, 
129. 

Prince Albert, 70. 

Race, Cape, 124. 

Raleigh's Cell, 103. 

Rail-Way Cars, CI. 

Rainbows, 121. 

'Regalia, 104. 



Charing Cross Bridge,96i 

Chart, 133. 

Chiffoniers, 55. 

Coprolites, 75. 

Cowes, 27. 

Crag, 73. 

Crystal Palace, G6, 95 

99,114,140. 
Day's length, 20. 
Diamond, Koh-i- noor, Luxembourg, 49 

,r, 33 ens, 1/. ^ o L ^.fT^Hni. 



I urn, -3. 
Living in Paris, 52. 
Loaan, Mr., 84. 
-Dg Books, 28,132. 

London, 134. 

Longitude at sea, 22. 

Lords, House of, 66. 
|L r -uvre, 42. 



14. 



Soiree, 111 
Somerset House, 97. 
Southampton, 59. 
St. Germain Church, 43. 
St. Martin 's-in-the- 
1 Fields, 63. 

St Pancreas' Ch., 101. 

St. Paul's Church, 98, 
i 113. 

Sunday in Paris, 34. 

Sunrise, 23. 

Sunset, 129. 



iTower of London, 103. 



D'Obisny, rrotessor, oo ens, *■• Tower of Lond 

Vo g ne\ighthouse/^ 

E X cursion,Geological,/2 J' ^Garden of ^te,4U * ^ 



Exhibition, Great 
Fire Island, 131. 
Fishing, 18. 
Flower Markets, 39. 
Flying Fish, 15. 
Forbes, Professor, 62,68 
Fossils of Crag, 77. 
Garden of Plants, 39,o4. 
Grand Banks, 14,123. 
Great Exhibition, 139. 



mlNational Gallery, 84. &*££ffij™ 

Needles, 26. iVattemare, A. 6Z. 

Nelson's Monument, 63. Versailles, 48 



Notre Dame Church, 
Owen, Professor, 70. 
Pantheon, 50. 
Peace Congress^ 104. 
Penitentiary, 87. 
Petrels, 17. 
Phillips, Professor, 73. 



Waterloo Bridge, 97. 
Waves, Height of, 120. 
jWhales, 19, 118. 
Whirlwind, 122. 
Wimbledon Common, 99 
Wren, Christopher, 113. 



tit 63 3 






